Trends in The Use Of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics Part 3

Thov hu rauoscar.xiao@wecistanche.comyog xav paub ntxiv

2.2.10.Acacia decurrens

Acacia decurrens (dub wattle) belongs rau tsev neeg Fabaceae [93]. Cov lipids los ntawm paj extract yog cov feem ntau siv kev npaj nyob rau hauv kom hniav zoo nkauj khoom, muab ib tug tawv nqaij txias thiab occlusive nkaus [94]. cawv (7%) , saturated monoesters (22 feem pua ​​) ), thiab ib tug loj npaum li cas ntawm khib-ntaus hydrocarbon chains (27 feem pua ​​, C27-C33) [94,95]. Tsis muaj cov ntaub ntawv txuas rau qhov kev npaj no rau kev tiv thaiv kev laus tau pom.

2.3. Botanicals'Anti-Aging Mechanisms

Tom qab tshuaj xyuas cov ntaub ntawv hais txog txhua qhov kev npaj botanical, cov khoom xyaw uas nws cov txheej txheem tiv thaiv kev laus tau sau tseg rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv tshawb fawb tau categorized thiab quantified (Daim duab 2).

Zuag qhia tag nrho, muaj kev nce hauv kev siv botanicals nrog pov thawj los tiv thaiv kev laus los ntawm 2011 txog 2018.cistanche genghis khanNws yog qhov pom tau tias cov khoom siv feem ntau yog tib yam hauv ob xyoos. Botanicals nrog DNA-tiv thaiv kev txiav txim tau siv ntau zaus, ua raws li enzyme-inhibiting cov khoom xyaw thiab cov uas muaj o-txo ua. Nws tseem tsim nyog hais txog qhov tshwm sim ntawm cov khoom xyaw uas hloov pauv cov tshuaj hormones.

Kev siv cov khoom xyaw botanical uas qhib cov cell receptors thiab hloov kho txoj hauv kev metabolic zoo li tsis tshua muaj txiaj ntsig. Piv nrog rau kev kawm zoo sib xws raws li Asmeskas kev lag luam hauv xyoo 2010, tsuas yog "Vitis vinifera grape noob extract" thiab "Glycyrrhiza glabra cag extract" tau hais hauv ob qho kev tshawb fawb [13].

Thov nias ntawm no kom paub ntxiv

Cov pov thawj rau kev ua tau zoo thiab cov txheej txheem ntawm kev ua los ntawm cov khoom xyaw botanical yog sparse, thiab nws feem ntau tsis muaj qhov cuam tshuam.cistanche lub neej extension,Tsis tas li ntawd, ntau yam cuam tshuam rau botanical npaj muaj pes tsawg leeg, los ntawm kev cog qoob loo mus rau txoj kev rho tawm, ntxiv ntau qhov nyuaj rau qhov kev sib tham no. Nws tsis yog ib qho yooj yim rau cov neeg tsim qauv xaiv cov khoom xyaw botanical uas tsim nyog tshaj plaws rau kev tsim cov khoom kom zoo nkauj, uas thaum kawg yuav cuam tshuam rau cov khoom lag luam. Qhov no tsis yog tsuas yog kev puas tsuaj rau cov neeg siv khoom, tab sis kuj rau cov chaw tsim khoom, uas yuav pom tias nws nyuaj rau tsim thiab ua kom pom tseeb cov lus thov txaus siab.

Cistanche tuaj yeem tiv thaiv kev laus

3. Cov ntaub ntawv thiab cov txheej txheem

3.1.Data Collection

Cov ntaub ntawv tau sau los ntawm cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus los ntawm ntau lub npe lag luam hauv khw muag tshuaj thiab cov khw muag tshuaj hauv Portugal. Cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tiv thaiv kev laus tau suav nrog hauv txoj kev tshawb fawb yog tias lawv tau nthuav tawm ntawm daim ntawv lo ib lo lus hauv qab no: tiv thaiv wrinkle (s); anti-aging / anti-aging; kho wrinkles; regenerator; kev laus; firming. Tag nrho cov ntaub ntawv muaj nyob rau ntawm cov khoom daim ntawv lo tau sau, nrog rau cov ntaub ntawv muaj nyob rau ntawm cov ntawv qhia zaub mov-facturers'websites. Cov ntaub ntawv sau tau pib hauv 2011 thiab tau hloov kho nrog cov khoom tsim tawm hauv xyoo 2018 lossis nws cov ntsiab lus tau txuas ntxiv rau xyoo ntawd, txhawm rau kom tsis txhob muaj cov khoom lag luam sib piv thiab cuam tshuam txog kev lag luam kev lag luam.ceg nzCov tshuaj pleev ib ce rau daim ntawv thov ntawm lub ntsej muag, caj dab, thiab eve contour tau suav nrog, suav nrog ntau dua 40 lub npe sib txawv Ua raws li cov qauv no, 280 cov khoom raug xaiv, uas yog 177 thiab 103 raws li hauv 2011 thiab 2018.

3.2. Botanical Preparations Prevalence thiab ntau yam

Tus txheeb ze ntawm cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce uas muaj cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus botanical npaj (qhia hauv feem pua) thiab ntau yam kev npaj siv rau txhua xyoo tau txiav txim siab.

3.3. Sab saum toj botanical hom

Txhua qhov kev npaj botanical tau teev tseg raws li nws lub npe INCI thiab tom qab ntawd cais raws li botanical lub npe scientific. Kev tsom xam tsom mus rau kaum hom botanical (Plantae lub nceeg vaj) nrog kev siv ntau tshaj plaws ntawm cov khoom xaiv. Kev siv ntau zaus rau txhua hom kab mob botanical tau txiav txim siab los ntawm cov lej ntawm cov khoom lag luam uas muaj cov kev npaj tshwj xeeb hauv ob xyoos thiab tom qab ntawd suav nrog qis qis.

3.4. Pov thawj rau Botanicals Anti-Aging Efficacy

Cov kev npaj cov ntsiab lus thiab cov txiaj ntsig tiv thaiv kev laus tau tshawb nrhiav hauv cov ntaub ntawv online hauv qab no: PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, Cochrane, thiab KOS-MET. Tom qab ntawd, cov kev npaj botanical uas qhia txog kev tiv thaiv kev laus hauv kev sim tshuaj tau muab ua pawg raws li lawv cov txheej txheem ntawm kev ua, raws li tau piav qhia los ntawm Hyland Cronin thiab Zoe Draelos [13]. Qhov kev faib tawm no faib cov khoom xyaw tiv thaiv kev laus raws li yim qhov sib txawv ntawm kev ua: "hloov cov tawv nqaij barrier" (piv txwv li, daim tawv nqaij du, exfoliate ntawm daim tawv nqaij), "txhim kho intercellular lipids" (xws li, cholesterol, triglycerides, fatty acids tseem ceeb. , ceramides, natural moisturizing factor), "activate cell receptors" (xws li, retinoids), "tiv thaiv cell DNA" (xws li, antioxidants, sunscreens), "modulate a metabolic pathway" (xws li peptides), "activate or inhibit enzymes" (piv txwv li, daim tawv nqaij ua kom pom kev), "txo o" (xws li, botanic antioxidants, cog sterols), los yog "hloov cov tshuaj hormones" (soy phytoestrogens). botanicals uas tau pom los hloov kho daim tawv nqaij barrier thiab / los yog txhim kho intercellular lipids. tsis tau suav hais tias yog anti-aging active cov khoom xyaw. Cov pawg no tsis yog tshwj xeeb rau ntu tiv thaiv kev laus, uas yog vim li cas cov khoom xyaw no tuaj yeem siv rau hauv cov qauv tsim vim tias lawv cov occlusive / emollient lossis viscosity hloov pauv. Yog li ntawd, lawv suav nrog raws li cov khoom xyaw tiv thaiv kev laus tuaj yeem ua rau txoj kev tshawb fawb no.

4. Cov lus xaus

Kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce yog ib txwm hloov zuj zus, thiab kev sib tw ua ke nrog kev xav tau kom tau raws li cov neeg siv khoom nyiam yuav tsum muaj kev txhim kho cov khoom lag luam tas li thiab hloov kho. Nature-derived cov khoom xyaw yog nce nrov. Qhov tshwm sim ntawm kev npaj botanical nyob rau hauv muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm cov khoom tiv thaiv kev laus tau nce los ntawm 2011 txog 2018. Lub sijhawm no, Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, thiab Glycine soja tseem nyob hauv txoj haujlwm ncej. Peb hom nroj tsuag no, ua ke nrog Theobroma cacao thiab Glycyrrhiza glabra, tau pom tias muaj txiaj ntsig zoo li cov khoom xyaw tiv thaiv kev laus. Cov kev npaj botanical no sawv tawm rau lawv cov ntsiab lus hauv cov tebchaw nrog kev txaus siab rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tiv thaiv kev laus, thiab lawv cov kev ua tau zoo tau pom ob qho tib si hauv vitro thiab hauv vivo.cistanche noov lojNws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas tag nrho cov kev npaj no muaj polyphenols, feem ntau flavonoids, tab sis kuj stilbenes. Ntawm cov tsev neeg flavonoid ntau yam, flavan-3-ols tau pom ntau tshaj plaws nyob rau hauv 10 botanical npaj, ua raws li proanthocyanidins, anthocyanins, flavonols, isoflavones, thiab tannins. Ntawm qhov tod tes, botanical hom xws li Simmondsia Chinensis, Helianthus annuus, Calendula officinalis, Limnanthes alba, thiab Acacia decurrens muaj cov ntaub ntawv tsis txaus lossis tsis muaj nyob rau hauv kev txhawb nqa lawv siv raws li kev tiv thaiv kev laus, thiab lawv zoo li yuav muab tso rau hauv cov qauv tsim rau. lawv emollient los yog rheological-modifying zog.

Hais txog kev ua haujlwm ntawm botanical npaj tau kawm, nws yog qhov tseeb tias muaj kev nyiam rau DNA-tiv thaiv cov khoom xyaw, ua raws li cov khoom xyaw uas muaj peev xwm ua kom muaj zog lossis tsis ua haujlwm enzymes thiab cov khoom xyaw ua kom txo qis. Nws yog qhov tsim nyog hais tias cov khoom xyaw uas hloov pauv cov tshuaj hormones tsis txaus siab tau mus txog 10 sab saum toj nkaus xwb hauv 2018, uas tuaj yeem kwv yees tus qauv rau xyoo tom ntej.cistanche hmoovHauv kev xaus, txawm tias siv dav siv cov khoom xyaw botanical hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus, tsuas yog qee qhov kev npaj tau kawm rau lawv cov kev tiv thaiv kev laus, feem ntau yog siv hauv vitro xeem. Nyob rau hauv vivo randomized tswj kev sim yog xav tau los ntxiv dag zog rau cov pov thawj rau kev siv botanicals li anti-aging active cov khoom xyaw. 5. Cov kev txwv

Nyob rau lub sijhawm ntawm xya xyoo, pom cov kev hloov pauv hauv kev siv cov kev npaj botanical tuaj yeem cuam tshuam los ntawm cov txheej txheem siv, txij li kev sau cov ntaub ntawv hauv xyoo 2018 tau tsom mus rau cov qauv tshiab thiab rov ua dua tshiab, uas yuav ua rau muaj kev tshawb fawb ntawm cov khoom sib txawv thoob plaws. xyoo.

Tsis tas li ntawd, kev npaj botanical 'cov khoom muaj feem xyuam nrog ntau yam ntawm ib puag ncig thiab kev loj hlob qib, nrog rau cov txheej txheem rho tawm. Txawm hais tias qee cov botanicals muaj cov ntaub ntawv pov thawj zoo los tiv thaiv kev laus, qhov ua tau zoo ntawm cov khoom kawg kuj yog nyob ntawm cov qauv. Ntau qhov sib txawv tuaj yeem cuam tshuam rau kev ua tau zoo ntawm cov formulations uas muaj botanical active cov khoom xyaw xws li lawv cov concentration thiab tso tawm, lub xub ntiag ntawm nkag mus, los yog tshwj xeeb ntawm daim tawv nqaij xa systems, tab sis kuj botanical npaj 'kev ruaj ntseg thiab lawv kev sib raug zoo nrog lwm cov khoom xyaw ntawm formulation.

Kab lus no yog muab rho tawm los ntawm Molecules 2021, 26, 3584. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26123584 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/molecules