Hu rau: Audrey Hu Whatsapp / hp: 0086 13880143964 Email:audrey.hu@wecistanche.com

Abstract:Kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce yog ib qho kev lag luam loj tshaj plaws nyob rau hauv kaum xyoo dhau los. Raws li cov tswv yim kev zoo nkauj tau hloov pauv, ntau cov ntsiab lus tau raug tsim los nrog kev tsim kho tshiab ntawm kev lag luam no, txij li cov khoom lag luam zoo nkauj tsis yog tsuas yog txwv rau cov uas siv los tiv thaiv thiab txhim kho cov tsos ntawm tib neeg lub cev. Yog li ntawd, cov nqe lus xws licosmeceuticalsandnutricosmetics tau tshwm sim los muab kev xav ntawm kev noj qab haus huv cov txiaj ntsig ntawm cov khoom uas tsim kev zoo nkauj ntawm sab hauv mus rau sab nraud. Nyob rau hauv xyoo tas los, cov khoom siv ntuj tsimcosmeceuticalstau txais txiaj ntsig ntau ntawm kev saib xyuas tsis yog los ntawm cov kws tshawb fawb nkaus xwb tab sis kuj los ntawm cov pej xeem vim kev ntseeg dav dav tias lawv tsis muaj mob. Notably, nyob rau hauv xyoo tas los no, qhov kev thov raucosmeceuticalslos ntawm marineresources tau exponentially nyob rau hauv nce vim lawv cov tshuaj lom neeg thiab lom yam khoom uas tsis muaj nyob rau hauv cov kev pab cuam terrestrial. Yog li no, qhov kev tshuaj xyuas tam sim no hais txog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov khoom sib txuas hauv hiav txwv, hais txog cov tshuaj tshiab nrog cov peev txheej zoo nkauj los ntawm cov khoom siv hauv hiav txwv thiab lawv cov txheej txheem ntawm kev ua los ntawm cov tshuaj sib xyaw ua haujlwm ntawm lub cev nrog rau lawv cov txiaj ntsig kev noj qab haus huv. Marine ib puag ncig yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws reservoir ntawm biodiversity uas muab biologically active tshuaj uas nws muaj peev xwm tseem yuav nrhiav tau nyob rau hauv daim ntawv thov raws li kws tshuaj, nutraceuticals, thiabcosmeceuticals. Cov kab mob hauv hiav txwv tsis yog tsuas yog ib qho tseem ceeb txuas ntxiv mus ntawm cov khoom muaj txiaj ntsig zoo siv hauv kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce xws li agar thiab carrageenan, uas yog siv los ua gelling thiab thickening agents los ua kom cov viscosity ntawm cosmetic formulations, tab sis kuj muaj me me molecules xws li ectoine (los txhawb cov tawv nqaij hydration. ), trichodin A (kom tiv thaiv cov khoom hloov pauv los ntawm cov kab mob microbial), thiab mytiloxanthin (raws li cov tshuaj pleev xim). Marine-derived molecules tuaj yeem ua haujlwm raws li cov khoom xyaw nquag, ua cov ntsiab lus tseem ceeb uas txiav txim siab txog kev ua haujlwm ntawm cosmeceuticals xws lianti-tyrosinase(kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV tiv thaiv (scytonemin, mycosporine-zoo li amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, thiab anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin thiab PUFAs).

Ntsiab lus: cosmeceuticals; khoom noj khoom haus; marine-derived compounds;anti-tyrosinase; anti-aginganti-wrinkle; Kev tiv thaiv UV

cistanche, tyrosinase inhibitor

1. Taw qhia

European Commission (EC) txoj cai No.1223/2009 txhais cov tshuaj pleev ib ce raws li "cov khoom tsim los siv rau sab nraud ntawm tib neeg lub cev xws li epidermis, plaub hau, rau tes, daim di ncauj thiab sab nraud ntawm qhov chaw mos, los yog cov hniav thiab cov mucous daim nyias nyias. Qhov ncauj kab noj hniav nrog tshwj xeeb lossis lub ntsiab lus tseem ceeb los ntxuav, tshuaj tsw qab, tiv thaiv lossis hloov lawv cov tsos lossis ua kom lawv nyob rau hauv cov xwm txheej zoo " [1].Txawm hais tias cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tsis yog tsim los cuam tshuam rau cov qauv thiab kev ua haujlwm ntawm lub cev, muaj ntau yam kev xav tau rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, suav nrog kev nyab xeeb, tsis muaj kev phiv, thiab lawv lub peev xwm los qhia cov txiaj ntsig zoo rau kev noj qab haus huv [2]. Raws li kev lag luam ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce yog qhov muaj zog heev thiab cov khoom tshiab tau raug tsim tawm tas li ntawm tus nqi nrawm heev, cov tswv yim tshiab kuj tau tshwm sim tsis tu ncua, thiab cov ntsiab lus tshiab tau raug coined. Yog li ntawd, lo lus "cosmeceuticals", uas muab los ntawm kev sib xyaw ntawm "cov tshuaj pleev ib ce" thiab "pharmaceuticals", thiab tau nrov los ntawm Kilgman [3], hais txog cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce zoo li cov txiaj ntsig zoo. lees paub lub ntsiab lus no, nws tau siv dav hauv kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce [4]. Nyob rau hauv lem, lub tswv yim tsis ntev los no, sawv cev rau cov qauv tshiab hauv kev lag luam kev zoo nkauj yog "nutricosmetics", uas tau tshwm sim los ntawm kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm "cosmeceuticals" thiab "nutraceuticals", thiab cov no yog destined rau qhov ncauj supplementation ntawm cov as-ham formulated thiab ua lag luam tshwj xeeb rau kev zoo nkauj [4]. Nutricosmetics yog yam ntxwv asnatural noj qab haus huv cov khoom uas muaj peev xwm los txhim kho cov hauj lwm thiab tsos ntawm daim tawv nqaij, plaub hau, thiab rau tes thaum Nws ntseeg tau tias cov tshuaj no ua rau lawv cov teebmeem kev zoo nkauj thiab / kev tu cev ntawm tus kheej hauv lub cev. Yog li, cov khoom noj khoom haus tau dhau los ua qhov sib txawv, txij li cov neeg siv niaj hnub no muaj kev paub zoo txog cov khoom noj thiab cov khoom noj, nyiam kom tau txais cov khoom zoo tshaj plaws los ntawm lub hauv paus chiv keeb. uas tuaj yeem kho thiab txhim kho kev noj qab haus huv thiab kev zoo nkauj yam tsis muaj qhov cuam tshuam rau kev txiav txim siab [4].

Cosmeceuticalsmuaj cov khoom xyaw nquag xws li cov vitamins, minerals, phytochemicals, enzymes, uas muaj nyob rau hauv ntau hom formulations xws li cream, lotions, thiab tshuaj pleev [5]. Cov tshuaj naturalbioactive no tuaj yeem muab tau los ntawm ntau qhov chaw xws li cov nroj tsuag hauv av, cov kab mob, thiab cov kab mob marine. Cov tshuaj no tuaj yeem muaj ntau yam kev ua haujlwm nrog rau cov uas muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau tib neeg kev noj qab haus huv [5], uas tuaj yeem txhawb nqa cov tawv nqaij noj qab haus huv, plaub hau, thiab rau tes ntawm qib cellular [6]. Txawm hais tias cov khoom xyaw cog qoob loo tseem nrov heev thiab dav siv los ua cosmeceuticals, lawv kuj muaj qee qhov kev txwv vim tias cov nroj tsuag feem ntau loj hlob qeeb heev thiab lawv cov tshuaj muaj pes tsawg leeg sib txawv ntawm lub caij mus rau lub caij thiab los ntawm cheeb tsam mus rau cheeb tsam. Ntawm qhov tsis sib xws, marineflora thiab fauna tsis tsuas yog tsim cov tshuaj lom neeg biomolecules tsis pom nyob rau hauv cov khoom siv hauv av tab sis kuj tuaj yeem loj hlob sai hauv qhov ntau thiab raug nqi los ntawm cov tswv yim niaj hnub aquaculture [7].

2. Cov hom phiaj lom neeg thiab cov cuab yeej ua haujlwm ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce

Tam sim no, muaj kev xav tau zoo heevcosmeceuticalsuas ua haujlwm raws li daim tawv nqaij depigmentation, UV lim,anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle,anti-aging, daim tawv nqaij hydrating, antiacne, thiabantioxidantthiab cytoprotective agents [8]. Yog li, tshooj no yuav qhia luv luv txog cov dej num lom neeg thiab cov txheej txheem ntawm kev ua ntawm qee qhov loj cosmeceuticals nrog rau txoj hauv kev biochemical thiab cov hom phiaj koom nrog hauv cov txheej txheem no.

2.1. Kev ua haujlwm Antimelanogenic

Qhov kev thov rau cov khoom tu tawv nqaij yog mob siab rau los ntawm lub hom phiaj kom ci ntsa iab thiab ci ntsa iab ntawm cov tawv nqaij nrog rau kev tshem tawm hauv zos hyperpigmentation [9]. Cov tawv nqaij ntxuav hniav dawb yog siv cov tshuaj orsynthetic uas ua rau txo qis pigmentation los ntawm kev txo cov melanin concentration hauv daim tawv nqaij. Qhov kev xyaum no yuav raug tsav los ntawm cov kev xav tau ntawm dermatological xws li daim tawv nqaij hyperpigmentation los ntawm autoimmune tej yam kev mob, raug UV hluav taws xob, genetic yam, thiab hormonal hloov uas yuav induce overproduction ntawm melanin nyob rau hauv daim tawv nqaij [10]. Cov txheej txheem depigmentation tuaj yeem koom nrog ib lossis ntau cov kauj ruam hauv txoj kev melanogenic, xws li kev hloov pauv melanosome lossis kev ua tom qab hloov pauv, thiab degradation. Yog li ntawd, melanin biosynthesis tuaj yeem tiv thaiv los ntawm kev zam ntawm UV raug, inhibition ntawm tyrosinase enzyme, melanocytes metabolism, thiab proliferation, los yog tshem tawm melanin nws tus kheej [11]. Kev ua kom tawv nqaij dawb tuaj yeem ua tiav los ntawm ntau lub tswv yim, xws li kev tiv thaiv ntawm microphthalmia cuam tshuam nrog kev hloov pauv, txo qis ntawm melanocortin 1 receptoractivity, cuam tshuam nrog melanosome maturation thiab hloov pauv, melanocyte poob, thiab inhibition ntawm tyrosinase enzyme [12]. Ob peb depigmenting agents modulate skin pigmentation los ntawm influencing the transcription and act of tyrosinase-related melanogenic enzymes, tyrosinase-related protein-1(TYRP-1), tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TYRP{{13}) }}), los yog peroxidase [13]. Tyrosinase inhibition tau dhau los ua ntau tshaj plaws thiab nce nrov hauv cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce kom zoo nkauj. Txog rau tam sim no, kev siv hluavtaws tyrosinase inhibitors yog qhov txwv tsis pub vim lawv cov tshuaj lom neeg, tsis muaj kev ruaj ntseg, tsis zoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij, thiab kev ua haujlwm tsawg [14]. Kev lig kev cai, cov tebchaw los ntawm cov nroj tsuag xws li hydroquinoneglycoside arbutin (1) thiab azelaic acid (2), thiab los ntawm cov kab mob xws li kojic acid (3) (Daim duab 1) [10], tau siv dav los ua cov tawv nqaij whiteners hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce. Txawm li cas los xij, nyob rau xyoo tas los no, kev tshawb fawb tau tsom mus rau cov tebchaw los ntawm cov kab mob hauv hiav txwv, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog phlorotannins xws li 7-phloroeckol (4) los ntawm cov xim av algae (Daim duab 1), vim nws feem ntau ntseeg tias cov tshuaj no muaj kev nyab xeeb dua li cov tawv nqaij. tshuaj dawb. Cov lus nug txog kev nyab xeeb tau tshwm sim los ntawm lub tswv yim hais tias cov ntsiab cai tseem ceeb tsis raug cais tawm, tab sis hloov mus rau hauv cov tshuaj lom neeg nyuaj thiab ruaj khov uas tiv thaiv lawv qhov tsis zoo ntawm qhov chaw ntawm daim ntawv thov [15].

Cov tawv nqaij pigmentation yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws photoprotective yam vim melanin tsis tsuas yog ua haujlwm raws li lub dav hlau UV absorbent tab sis kuj muaj cov tshuaj tua kab mob antioxidant thiab radical scavenging zog [16]. Tsis tas li ntawd, melanin kuj tseem ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev zais, kev tswj xyuas kom sov, thiab kev sib cuam tshuam ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce. Pigmentation yog cov cuab yeej cuab tam thiab tswj hwm los ntawm caj ces, ib puag ncig, thiab endocrine yam uas hloov pauv tus nqi, hom, thiab faib melanin hauv daim tawv nqaij, plaub hau, thiab qhov muag. Raws li daim tawv nqaij yog lub cev loj tshaj plaws ntawm lub cev uas ib txwm raug rau sab hauv thiab sab nraud, nws feem ntau teb rau cov xwm txheej no los ntawm kev hloov kho cov xim pigmentation [17]. Tsis tas li ntawd, kev tsim khoom ntau dhau lossis tsis muaj cov xim melanin tsis yog qhov teeb meem zoo nkauj xwb vim tias muaj kev hloov pauv me me hauv lub cev ntawm tib neeg lub cev lossis raug cuam tshuam rau cov teeb meem sab nraud tuaj yeem cuam tshuam cov xim pigmentation nyob rau hauv ib ntus (xws li thaum cev xeeb tub) lossis mus tas li (xws li, lub hnub nyoog me ntsis) kev coj ua [17]. Vim li no, kuj tseem muaj qhov xav tau zoo rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce rau kev kho mob ntawm lentigo, lub ntsej muag cev xeeb tub, lossis txawm tias hyperpigmentation los ntawm tshuaj lom.

Melanin yog tsim los ntawm cov txheej txheem enzymatic nyob rau hauv melanosomes, ib qho organelle nyob hauv melanocytes, thiab tom qab ntawd hloov mus rau keratinocytes nyob ze rau kev tiv thaiv photoprotection [18,19]. Tyrosinase yog ib qho khoom siv ntau yam, daim nyias nyias glycosylated, thiab tooj liab-muaj oxidase enzyme uas cuam tshuam rau cov theem pib ntawm melanogenesis los ntawm hydroxylation ntawm tyrosine mus rau 3, 4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) thiab tom qab ntawd oxidizes [DOPA20]. Txij li tyrosinase yog tus nqi txwv enzyme, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb rau melanin synthesis thiab tswj cov pigmentation ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Yog li, qhov inhibition ntawm lub hom phiaj lom neeg tam sim no yog txoj hauv kev zoo tshaj plaws rau kev txhim kho cov tawv nqaij ntxuav hniav dawb rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce [18].

Txawm hais tias muaj ntau qhov sib txuas uas nthuav tawm hauv vitro tyrosinase inhibitory kev ua haujlwm, tsuas yog qee qhov ua tau zoo hauv kev sim tshuaj [21,22]. Yog li, nkag siab txog cov txheej txheem los ntawm qhov sib txawv thiab cov khoom sib txuas ua rau melanogenesis yog qhov tseem ceeb rau kev tsim thiab tsim cov khoom lag luam nrog cov hom phiaj tshwj xeeb xws li cov kab mob pigmentary kho thiab cov khoom tanning kom txo cov kev pheej hmoo mob qog noj ntshav, nrog rau lwm tus [17]. Tsis tas li ntawd, tyrosinase kuj tau tshaj tawm los ua kom muaj kev tsim cov dopaminequinone hauv tib neeg substantia nigra, uas yog ib yam khoom uas yuav koom nrog hauv dopamineneurotoxicity thiab ntau yam kab mob neurodegenerative xws li Parkinson's disease. Tsis tas li ntawd, tyrosinase kuj tseem yog lub hom phiaj rau kev txhim kho tshuaj rau kev kho mob Parkinson's disease [23]. Kev tshawb pom tshiab ntawm tyrosinase inhibitors nrog lub peev xwm los tswj cov melanogenesis yog qhov txaus siab tshwj xeeb, vim tias ntau ntau ntawm melanin ua rau hyperpigmentation ntawm daim tawv nqaij nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm freckles, thiaj li hu ua "hnub nyoog melanomas" thiab melanoma. Txawm hais tias ob peb tyrosinase inhibitors koom nrog cov chav kawm tshuaj sib txawv tau tshawb pom los ntawm cov khoom siv hauv hiav txwv ua cov tawv nqaij whiteningagents lossis rau kev kho cov pigmentation cuam tshuam, qee qhov ntawm lawv muaj qhov tsis zoo rau tib neeg kev noj qab haus huv [24].

Lwm qhov tseem ceeb yog tias txawm hais tias lub zog inhibitory ntawm tyrosinase inhibitors yog ib txwm qhia raws li lawv cov txiaj ntsig ntawm ib nrab inhibitory concentration (IC50), nws tsis tuaj yeem sib piv ncaj qha rau cov haujlwm inhibitory ntawm cov tebchaw sib txawv los ntawm lawv cov txiaj ntsig IC50 tau tshaj tawm hauv cov ntaub ntawv, txij li cov kev sim sim. xws li substrate concentrations, incubation lub sij hawm, thiab cov batches ntawm coj mus muag tyrosinase enzymes siv varied ntawm txawv kev soj ntsuam. Txhawm rau zam qhov tsis sib xws, feem ntau cov kev tshawb fawb tau ua los ntsuas cov tyrosinase inhibitors tshiab siv tus qauv tyrosinase inhibitor xws li kojic acid (3) (Daim duab 1) raws li kev tswj hwm zoo [20]. Kojic acid (3), fungal metabolite tam sim no siv asa daim tawv nqaij whitening tus neeg sawv cev hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab kuj yog ib qho khoom noj ntxiv los tiv thaiv enzymatic browning yog lawv feem ntau kawm tyrosinase inhibitor [25].

Raws li tyrosinase inhibitors tsis yog tsuas yog ib qho tseem ceeb depigmentation agents nyob rau hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, tab sis kuj tseem pab kho mob rau kev kho mob ntawm ib co kab mob dermatological txuam nrog melaninhyperpigmentation [26], nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb kom raug txhais lo lus "tyrosinase inhibitor". Feem ntau, qhov kev xaiv ntawm "tyrosinase inhibitor" tsis yog ib txwm pom tseeb, vim qee tus kws sau ntawv siv cov lus zoo sib xws los xa mus rau inhibitors ntawm melanogenesis uas nws qhov kev ua feem ntau cuam tshuam txog kev tsim melanin tab sis tsis muaj kev cuam tshuam ncaj qha rau tyrosinase enzyme. Yog li, tsuas yog cov tshuaj tiv thaiv tshwj xeeb thiab / lossis cov tshuaj tiv thaiv tshwj xeeb ntawm tyrosinase, uas khi ncaj qha rau cov enzyme thiab inhibit nws qhov kev ua haujlwm, suav tias yog "qhov tseeb inhibitors". Cov "qhov tseeb inhibitors" ntawm tyrosinase ces muab faib ua ob pawg: (1) tshwj xeeb tyrosinase inhibitors uas khi reversibly rau cov enzyme, yog li txo nws cov catalyticcapacity [20], thiab (2) tshwj xeeb tyrosinase inactivators, tseem hu ua irreversible inhibitors los yog "suicidesubstrates. ", uas tsim cov ntawv cog lus cog lus rau tyrosinase, yog li hloov pauv nws qhov chaw nquag thiab ua rau cov enzyme irreversibly thaum cov txheej txheem catalytic (xws li L-DOPA thiab catechol). Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws, cov tshuaj no feem ntau yog tshwj xeeb rau tyrosinase thiab tsis ua rau lwm cov proteins [27,28]. Tyrosinaseinhibitors tuaj yeem raug faib ua pawg, raws li lawv cov qauv tshuaj los yog cov txheej txheem inhibitory, ua rau tsib chav kawm loj: (1) polyphenols, (2) benzaldehyde thiab benzoate derivatives, (3) long-chain lipidsand steroids, (4) lwm yam ntuj los yog hluavtaws. inhibitors, thiab (5) irreversible inactivators. Polyphenols sawv cev rau pawg neeg sib txawv thiab loj tshaj plaws ntawm tyrosinase inhibitors, flavonoids yog tus sawv cev tseem ceeb ntawm pab pawg no [29]. Ntxiv nrog rau cov flavonoids, ob peb stilbenes thiab coumarin derivatives tau pom tias muaj kev tiv thaiv tyrosinase [30].

2.2. Antiaging Activity

Lo lus "kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij" yog hais txog qhov degradation ntawm lub dermis, xws li thinning, dryness, laxity, fragility, loj pores, nplua kab thiab wrinkles, vasculature prominences, nce pob tshab, thiab poob ntawm elasticity [31]. Cov txheej txheem kev laus txo cov tawv nqaij tuab, elasticity, thiab curling ntawm elasticfibers ntawm daim tawv nqaij, uas ua rau kom wrinkles [32]. Intrinsic aging feem ntau yog txiav txim los ntawm geneticfactors; Txawm li cas los xij, extrinsic yam xws li raug tshav ntuj, muaj kuab paug los yog nicotine, rov ua cov leeg nqaij xws li squinting lossis frowning, thiab kev ua neej xws li kev noj zaub mov, kev pw tsaug zog, thiab kev noj qab haus huv tag nrho kuj ua rau muaj kev laus [31]. Kev laus kuj cuam tshuam los ntawm kev txo qis hauv collagen geneexpression, kev ua haujlwm tsis tshua muaj fibroblast, thiab fibroblast regeneration nrog rau shrinking ntawm lamellar barrier, uas ua rau tsis muaj peev xwm ntawm daim tawv nqaij kom khaws noo noo. Txawm hais tias cov txheej txheem hauv qab ntawm daim tawv nqaij tsis tau meej meej, kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce tseem muaj ntau yam khoom siv tshuaj tiv thaiv, feem ntau yog thov kom txhawb nqa collagen thiab glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis los ntawm fibroblasts nyob rau hauv lub epidermis, yog li ua kom lub firmness thiab saj zawg zog. corneallayer ntawm daim tawv nqaij [33]

Tib neeg daim tawv nqaij yog lub anatomical barrier rau pathogens thiab lub cev puas tsuaj, ua raws li ib tug partition ntawm sab hauv thiab sab nraud ib puag ncig [34,35]. Cov tawv nqaij tiv thaiv peb lub cev los ntawm cov neeg ua phem rau sab nraud, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog lub hnub, uas muaj cov txheej txheem ntau yam uas txo qhov kev puas tsuaj thaum raug UV hluav taws xob. Cov txheej txheem no tuaj yeem tswj tau los ntawm qee cov organic thiab inorganiccompounds, xws li melanin (5) (Daim duab 2) [34,35]. Cov kab mob sib txawv tsim cov tshuaj sib txawv los tiv thaiv lawv tus kheej los ntawm kev cuam tshuam ntawm UV hluav taws xob. Piv txwv li, thaum tsiaj txhu (xws li tib neeg) siv melanin (5) los tiv thaiv lawv tus kheej los ntawm UV hluav taws xob, cov nroj tsuag siab dua tsim cov metabolites xws li flavonoids, thiab cov kab mob uas nyob hauv marine ib puag ncig nrog lub hnub ci ntau ua cov khoom sib txuas xws li scytonemin (6) (Daim duab 2), mycosporine-likeamino acids (MAAs), thiab ob peb lwm yam UV-absorbing tshuaj ntawm cov qauv tshuaj tsis paub txog tib lub hom phiaj [36,37]. Carotenoids, lwm chav kawm ntawm UV lim uas tsim los ntawm ntau hom microalgae, kuj tseem yog cov khoom siv tseem ceeb ntawm cov khoom xyaw saum toj kawg nkaus nrog cov khoom tiv thaiv kev laus [38], ntawm cov -carotene (7) (Daim duab 2) yog ib qho zoo tshaj plaws los tiv thaiv reactiveoxygen. hom (ROS) tsim, yog li zam kev puas tsuaj ntawm tes thiab cov txheej txheem kev laus [39].

2.2.1. Antiphotoaging Activity

Kev raug UV hluav taws xob ntev tuaj yeem ua rau dermatoheliosis lossis photoaging [40]. Raug UVirradiation, ob qho tib si UVA (400 nm <>< 320="" nm)="" and="" uvb="" (320="" nm="" <="" λ="" <="" 290="" nm),="" can="" lead="" to="" alterations="" in="" the="" composition="" of="" the="" dermal="" extracellular="" matrix="" (ecm),="" resulting="" in="" wrinkles,="" laxity,="" coarseness,="" mottled="" pigmentation,="" and="" histological="" changes="" including="" epidermal="" thickness="" and="" connective="" tissue="" alteration="" or="" even="" skin="" cancer="" (melanoma),="" which="" are="" typically="" mediated="" by="" ros="" [41–43].="" continuous="" exposure="" to="" uv="" radiation="" leads="" to="" numerous="" complications="" that="" are="" correlated="" with="" various="" pathological="" consequences="" of="" skin="" damage.="" for="" example,="" sunburn="" occurs="" when="" exposure="" to="" uv="" radiation="" exceeds="" the="" protective="" capacity="" of="" an="" individual's="" melanin="" [43–46].="" although="" short-term="" solar="" exposure="" can="" be="" beneficial="" on="" mood="" and="" vitamin="" d="" synthesis,="" it="" can="" also="" cause="" an="" immediate="" skin="" burn,="" detrimental="" skin="" thickening,="" actinic="" erythema,="" and="" excessive="" tanning.="" on="" the="" other="" hand,="" the="" long-term="" effects="" are="" all="" negative,="" including="" photo-induced="" skin="" aging="" and="" photo-carcinogenesis="" caused="" by="" uv="" radiation-induced="" immunosuppression.="" the="" severity="" of="" these="" long-term="" effects="" requires="" the="" use="" of="" appropriate="" protection="" during="" uv="" radiation="" exposure="" [47].="" although="" uvb="" affects="" mainly="" the="" epidermis="" and="" uva="" intervenes="" directly="" in="" the="" dermal="" compartment,="" both="" are="" the="" major="" factors="" responsible="" for="" the="" photoaging="" of="" human="" skin,="" damaging="" dermal="" fibroblasts,="" through="" the="" induction="" of="" cytokines,="" matrix="" metalloproteinases="" (mmps),="" and="" mitochondrial="" dna="" mutations="" [48,49].="" radiation-induced="" oxidation="" may="" cause="" photoaging="" by="" the="" reduction="" of="" antioxidant="" enzymes="" and="" the="" antioxidant="" defense="" mechanism,="" which="" may="" result="" in="" significant="" oxidative="" damage,="" immunomodulation,="" the="" activation="" of="" melanogenesis,="" and="" ultimately="" carcinogenesis="" [50].="" to="" avoid="" the="" deleterious="" effects="" caused="" by="" uv="" exposure,="" sunscreen="" products="" that="" commonly="" contain="" organic="" and/or="" inorganic="" filters="" are="" used="" [51–53].="" however,="" a="" number="" of="" naturally="" occurring="" photoprotective="" compounds="" such="" as="" scytonemin="" (6,="" from="" cyanobacteria),="" mycosporines="" (from="" fungi="" and="" cyanobacteria),="" maas="" (from="" cyanobacteria,="" microalgae,="" macroalgae,="" yeasts,="" fungi,="" sponges,="" corals,="" and="" animals),="" flavonoids="" (from="" higher="" plants),="" melanins="" (in="" humans="" and="" other="" animals="" and="" even="" some="" bacteria),="" and="" several="" other="" uv-absorbing="" substances="" of="" unknown="" chemical="" structures="" from="" different="" organisms="" have="" been="" explored="" to="" develop="" novel="" uv="" filters="" for="" sunscreen="" products="" to="" prevent="" photodamage="">

Ntau yam ntawm cov kab mob photosynthetic tau tshawb xyuas raws li qhov chaw ntawm photoprotectivecompounds. Cov no suav nrog mycosporines, MAAs, thiab ntau lwm yam UV lim [42,56,57]. MAAs belongs rau tsev neeg ntawm cov metabolites theem nrab uas tsim los ntawm ntau yam kab mob, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov uas nyob hauv cov kab ke uas muaj ntau lub hnub ci xws li dej hiav txwv thiab dej hiav txwv, rau kev tiv thaiv hnub ci hluav taws xob [58]. Cov hnyav molecular no tsawg (feem ntau<400 da)="" and="" colorless="" compounds="" are="" water-soluble="" and="" share="" the="" same="" chemical="" scaffold,="" but="" they="" differ="" in="" substituents="" and/or="" the="" presence="" and="" type="" of="" amino="" acids.="" their="" structures="" consist="" of="" cyclohexenone="" or="" cyclohexenimine="" chromophores="" linked="" to="" a="" nitrogen="" substituent="" of="" an="" amino="" acid="" or="" its="" iminoalcohol="" by="" conjugation="" [58,59].="" maas="" absorb="" uv="" radiation="" ranging="" from="" 310="" to="" 362="" nm="" and="" dissipate="" this="" energy="" in="" the="" form="" of="" heat="" radiation="" to="" the="" surrounding="" environment="" [60].="" the="" protection="" efficiency="" of="" maas="" against="" uv="" radiation="" depends="" also="" on="" their="" location="" in="" the="" cell,="" i.e.,="" maas="" located="" in="" the="" cytoplasm="" provide="" limited="" protection="" against="" uv="" radiation="" while="" extracellular="" maas="" are="" more="" effective="" protectors="" [61,62].="" on="" the="" other="" hand,="" scytonemin="" (6)="" (figure="" 2),="" a="" stable="" yellow-brown="" and="" lipid-soluble="" pigment,="" is="" located="" in="" the="" extracellular="" polysaccharide="" sheath="" of="" some="" cyanobacteria.="" scytonemin="" (6)="" has="" a="" maximum="" absorption="" at="" 386="" nm="" but="" also="" absorbs="" significantly="" at="" 252,="" 278,="" and="" 300="" nm.="" recent="" studies="" suggested="" that="" scytonemin="" (6)="" not="" only="" has="" the="" potential="" as="" a="" uv="" filter="" in="" cosmetics="" but="" also="" as="" an="" anticancer="" drug="">

2.2.2. Anti-Wrinkle Activity

Ib tug xov tooj ntawm kev tshawb fawb tau qhia tias MMPs, ib tsev neeg ntawm secreted los yog transmembrane zincendopeptidases, yog lub luag hauj lwm rau inhibition ntawm collagen synthesis nyob rau hauv daim tawv nqaij photoaged [64]. MMPs yog tsim los ntawm ntau lub hlwb, suav nrog fibroblasts, keratinocytes, mast cells, macrophages, andneutrophils, thiab lawv ntseeg tias ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev tsim wrinkle [65,66]. MMPs tuaj yeem muab faib ua peb pawg ua haujlwm loj, piv txwv li, interstitial collagenases (uas degrade hom I, II, thiab III collagen) [67], stromelysins (uas degrade laminin, fibronectin, thiab proteoglycans) [68], andgelatinases (uas. degrade hom IV thiab V collagens) [69]. MMPs kev qhia feem ntau yog ntxias los ntawm ntau yam kev tawm dag zog xws li kev loj hlob, cytokines, thiab UV hluav taws xob [70,71]. MMP geneexpression tuaj yeem cuam tshuam los ntawm ROS los ntawm txoj kev teeb liab hloov [72]. Ntxiv mus, MMPs overexpression yog txuam nrog cov ntaub so ntswg remodeling, kho, thiab puas phenomena.Piv txwv li, MMP-2 thiab MMP-9 tuaj yeem degrade ECM thiab cuam tshuam qhov tsim ntawm wrinkles thiab tawv thickness [73]. Qhov induction ntawm collagenase los yog MMP -1, ua rau collagen hom I degradation, tuaj yeem txhim kho kev tsim wrinkle, thiab vim collagen hom kuv yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov kab mob sib txuas, nws tsis tuaj yeem them nyiaj los ntawm kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm collagen synthesis [74] . Qhov imbalanceis no feem ntau nce los ntawm kev cuam tshuam ntawm UVA irradiation, uas ua rau txo qis ntawm collagen 1A1 thiab collagen 1A2, uas induces upregulation ntawm cytokine interleukin (IL)-6 [75].Ntawm qhov tod tes, qhov transcription factor, activating protein-1 (AP1), uas yog activated raws li UVA stimulation induces lub MMP-1 synthesis thiab kev tsuj ntawm collagen 1A1 thiab collagen1A2 [76]. Raws li, MMPs yog cov cim tseem ceeb rau kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij, thiab cov neeg ua haujlwm uas txhawb nqa collagensynthesis thiab / lossis txo cov duab tsim los ntawm MMPs yog qhov muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau cov khoom siv tawv nqaij [33]. Interestingly, ntau qhov kev tshawb fawb tau qhia tias cov khoom noj khoom haus tau txais txiaj ntsig xws li aschitooligosaccharides, flavonoids, polyphenols, thiab fatty acids muaj peev xwm inhibit qhov ua kom thiab nthuav tawm ntawm MMPs [71,77,78]. Yog li ntawd, cov tebchaw no tuaj yeem muaj peev xwm ua tau zoo rau kev tsim cov khoom lag luam nutricosmetic.

Tag nrho cov tshuaj tiv thaiv-wrinkle / antiaging cosmetic formulations feem ntau muaj moisturizing Cheebtsam los tswj cov tawv nqaij hydration, uas yog ib qho tseem ceeb rau daim tawv nqaij functions. Daim ntawv thov sab nraud ntawm lipidsthat txwv tsis pub dej poob, lossis cov khoom sib txuas nrog lub peev xwm los tsim cov ntawv cog lus nrog cov dej molecules yog siv los ua cov txheej txheem hydrating ntawm daim tawv nqaij [10]. Kev lig kev cai, linoleic acid thiab -linolenic acid feem ntau yog siv rau cov roj / dej emulsion kom khaws cov dej hauv daim tawv nqaij kom rov qab tau cov dej tsis zoo (TEWL) mus rau nws qhov qub [79]. Txawm li cas los xij, tsis ntev los no, qee cov kab mob microorganisms-derived biosurfactants xws li mannosylerythritol (8), rhamnolipids (9), thiab sophorolipids (10a thiab 10b) (Daim duab 2) raug tshawb xyuas rau lawv daim ntawv thov hauv cosmeticindustry vim lawv emulsifying, solubilizing, foaming, thiab dispersing zog, uas tsis tsuas yog txhim khu lub solubilization ntawm hydrophobic cov khoom xyaw nyob rau hauv cov khoom, tab sis kuj pab txhawb lawv tus me nyuam los ntawm daim tawv nqaij barrier [80]. Ntxiv mus, cov marine-derived biosurfactants muaj qhov zoo tshaj ntawm lawv cov khoom sib xws, txij li lawv muaj qhov khaus qis rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij, uas yog qhov zoo rau kev tiv thaiv wrinkle formulations [81].

2.3. Antioxidant Kev Ua Haujlwm

Antioxidants ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev tiv thaiv cellular tiv thaiv kev laus los ntawm kev tiv thaiv UV-inducedROS xws li superoxide anion (O2−), hydroxyl radical HO.), thiab H2O2 los tua cov membrane lipids, proteins, thiab DNA [82,83]. Txij li thaum oxidation ntawm daim nyias nyias lipid yog ib qho tseem ceeb tshaj plaws uas txo cov hluas ntawm daim tawv nqaij [84], kev tiv thaiv ntawm ROS formation yog qhov tseem ceeb. Antioxidants muab kev tiv thaiv tiv thaiv ib puag ncig tiv thaiv oxidative rau tib neeg cov tawv nqaij raug, tshwj xeeb, UV hluav taws xob, pa luam yeeb, thiab cov pa phem [82,83]. Yog li ntawd, kev noj cov zaub mov uas muaj antioxidant nplua nuj yog ib lub tswv yim tseem ceeb uas siv rau hauv lub npe hu ua "antioxidant therapy" los tswj kev noj qab haus huv thiab tiv thaiv ntau yam kab mob. Antioxidants muaj enzymatic thiab non-enzymatic molecules. Enzymatic antioxidants suav nrog superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), glutathione peroxidase (GSH), glutathione reductase (GR), thiab glutathionetransferase (GST), uas muaj nyob rau hauv tib neeg cov ntshav thiab erythrocytes [85, 86]. Non-enzymaticantioxidants muaj ntau pawg me me xws li -carotene (7) (Daim duab 2), R-tocopherol (TOH) (11), ascorbic acid (12), thiab ubiquinol (13) (Daim duab 3), thiab lwm yam. [87].

Tam sim no, ntau cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob xws li butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) (14), butylatedhydroxytoluene (BHT) (15), tert-butylhydroquinone (TBHQ) (16), thiab propyl gallate (17) (Daim duab 3) yog siv los ua cov tshuaj ntxiv los tua. oxidation hauv zaub mov, tshuaj pleev ib ce, thiab tshuaj. Txawm li cas los xij, kev siv cov hluavtaws antioxidants rau cov khoom noj lossis tshuaj tau txwv, vim tias lawv yuav ua rau muaj teeb meem hauv tib neeg kev noj qab haus huv vim lawv cov tshuaj lom thiab tsis muaj kev nyab xeeb [88,89]. Ntawm qhov tsis sib xws, txij li naturalantioxidants raug suav tias yog lwm txoj hauv kev nyab xeeb, ntau qhov kev tshawb fawb tau ua tiav los tshawb pom cov tshuaj antioxidants zoo rau kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce [90-93]. Ntuj antioxidants xws li asphlorotannins, sulfated polysaccharides, fucosterol (18), thiab fucoxanthin (19) (Daim duab 3), tag nrho cov derived los ntawm macroalgae, ntseeg tau tias yog lwm txoj kev zoo rau kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce [8,94].

Cov xim ntuj xws li chlorophylls, carotenoids, thiab tocopherol derivatives xws li vitaminE thiab isoprenoids kuj tseem nthuav cov antioxidants uas tuaj yeem tau txais los ntawm marineresources [90–93]. Cov tshuaj tua kab mob antioxidant thiab tiv thaiv kab mob ntawm carotenoids, uas ua rau lawv cov duab tiv thaiv ntawm daim tawv nqaij los ntawm inhibition ntawm UVA-induced ROS toxicity, ua rau cov khoom xyaw tseem ceeb hauv ntau cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub [53]. Ntawm qhov tod tes, MAAs tuaj yeem tsis tsuas yog tiv thaiv daim tawv nqaij tiv thaiv UV hluav taws xob tab sis kuj tseem muaj cov tshuaj tiv thaiv antioxidant siab los ntawm kev tshem tawm superoxideanion, thiab yog li tiv thaiv lipid peroxidation [95-97]. Cov khoom ntawm MAAs raws li UV lim thiab ROS scavengers qhia tias lawv tuaj yeem yog cov khoom xyaw muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub [98].Lwm qhov nthuav dav ntawm cov tshuaj antioxidants yog marine-derived oligosaccharides thiab peptides.Algae-derived carbohydrates tau pom zoo kom muaj, ntxiv rau lawv. thickening thiab moisturizingproperties, antioxidant, anti-melanogenic, thiab antiaging zog, uas muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau daim tawv nqaij, yog li sawv cev muaj nqis ntxiv.cosmeceuticals [99,100].

2.4. Antiacne Kev Ua Haujlwm

Pob txuv vulgaris, feem ntau hu ua pob txuv los yog pob txuv, uas yog ib qho mob ntawm cov hluas tab sis kuj tuaj yeem tshwm sim rau cov neeg laus, yog cov kab mob ntawm daim tawv nqaij feem ntau tshwm sim los ntawm qhov mob ntawm cov qog nqaij hlav no [101]. Pob txuv yog tshwm sim los ntawm ntau yam xwm txheej xws li hormonal, microbiological, thiab immunological mechanisms xws li androgen-mediated stimulation ntawm sebaceous glandactivity, follicular hyperkeratinization, thiab o. Cov kab mob Propionibacterium pob txuv yog tus neeg sawv cev ntawm cov theem inflammatory thiab yog li pib qhov mob o [102-104]. Yog li ntawd, P. pob txuv thiab Staphylococcus epidermidis yog lub hom phiaj tseem ceeb rau kev tiv thaiv thiab kev kho mob ntawm daim tawv nqaij [101,103]. Cov kab mob anaerobic no txhawb kev tsim cov cytokines pro-inflammatory thiab ua rau kev tso tawm ntawm ROS uas nws cov khoom siv ntau dhau los ua rau muaj kev puas tsuaj tshwm sim ua rau caws pliav [105]. Lawv kuj tso tawm lipases kom zom cov khoom seem ntawm daim tawv nqaij cov roj thiab sebum, uas ua rau muaj kev mob hnyav hauv zos uas tawg cov hauv paus plaub hau. Yog li ntawd, qhov inhibition ntawm kev loj hlob ntawm P. acnes tau raug lees paub tias yog ib txoj hauv kev zoo rau kev kho pob txuv hauv kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce. Hauv kev tshawb nrhiav cov tshuaj tua kab mob tshiab tiv thaiv P. acnes los ntawm marine bioresources los tsim cov khoom siv kho kom zoo nkauj tshiab los tiv thaiv pob txuv, sargafuran (20) (Daim duab 4), cais tawm los ntawm kev rho tawm ntawm marine xim av alga Sargassum macrocarpum, tau pom los ua pov thawj muaj zog antiacne kev tiv thaiv. P. pob txuv nrog qhov tsawg kawg nkaus inhibitory concentration (MIC) tus nqi ntawm 15 µg / mL [106]. Nyob rau hauv kev rau siab mus nrhiav Mari (los yog-derived compounds los kho pob txuv vulgaris, Choi li al. tau soj ntsuam cov antibacterialactivity ntawm ntau hom macroalgae, feem ntau pom nyob ib ncig ntawm lub ntug dej hiav txwv ntawm South Kauslim; Txawm li cas los, tsuas yog Ecklonia kurome, E. cava, thiab Ishige. sinicola nthuav tawm muaj zog inhibitory kev ua si tiv thaiv P. acnes nrog rau kev ua haujlwm tiv thaiv kab mob [107]. Yog li, cov tebchaw uas tsim los ntawm peb hom algal tuaj yeem yog cov neeg ua haujlwm cog lus rau kev tsim cov khoom kom zoo nkauj los tawm tsam vulgaris.

2.5. Kev Kho Mob thiab Kev Tiv Thaiv Kab Mob

Kev kho mob yog ib qho nyuaj thiab nruj txheej txheem ntawm kev rov qab cov ntaub ntawv thiab anatomicalfunctions ntawm cov ntaub so ntswg raug mob, uas muaj peb overlapping theem [108,109]. Qhov pib inflammatoryphase, tus cwj pwm los ntawm platelet activation thiab tso tawm ntawm kev loj hlob yam tseem ceeb thiab cytokines, yog ua raws li los ntawm lub proliferative theem, qhov kev loj hlob yam yog secreted thiab cell proliferation yog enhanced, thiab thaum kawg, lub xeem theem muaj xws li remodeling, nyob rau hauv uas collagen ntau lawm thiab. koom haum coj qhov chaw, uas coj mus rau lub mature caws pliav [110]. Kev kho mob hnyav lossis ib txwm mob tshwm sim los ntawm cov txheej txheem sib tshooj, tso cai rau kev kho cov tawv nqaij ua haujlwm thiab kev ncaj ncees hauv kev sib koom ua ke ntawm cov tib neeg tsis noj qab haus huv, nyob rau lub sijhawm 7 txog 10 hnub [111]. Qhov kev vam meej ntawm tag nrho cov xwm txheej no yuav ua rau muaj qhov ua tiav ntawm qhov txhab kho thiab rov ua haujlwm cuam tshuam ntawm daim tawv nqaij [112,113].Txawm li cas los xij, txhua yam kev hloov pauv uas cuam tshuam cov txheej txheem kho kom zoo tuaj yeem ua rau cov ntaub so ntswg puas tsuaj thiab ncua sijhawm kho, ua rau lub qhov txhab mob ntev. kho. Ntau yam, xws li kab mob, kab mob hauv qab (xws li, ntshav qab zib lossis kab mob plawv), tshuaj (xws li, steroids), thiab hnub nyoog laus tuaj yeem cuam tshuam cov txheej txheem kho mob [109,111]. Ntawm qhov tod tes, qhov mob yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm lub cev tiv thaiv kab mob uas cuam tshuam nrog kev sib cuam tshuam ntawm ntau lub hlwb, suav nrog leukocytes, cov qe ntshav, fibroblasts, thiab cov hlwb epithelial [108]. Muaj ob hom kev taw qhia nyob rau hauv cov txheej txheem inflammatory: cov uas pib thiab tswj cov o, thiab lwm yam uas tso tseg cov txheej txheem, thiab asymmetry ntawm cov teeb liab yuav ua rau cell thiab cov ntaub so ntswg puas. Yog li, qhov kev tswj hwm ntawm tag nrho cov txheej txheem tuaj yeem ua rau mob tochonic o thiab txawm tias tuag rau qee kis [114]. Cov kab mob ntawm daim tawv nqaij yog cov teeb meem tshwm sim ntau yam uas muaj nyob hauv ntau hom, piv txwv li, los ntawm qee zaus cov pob khaus nrog rau khaus khaus thiab liab mus rau ntau cov mob xws li atopic dermatitis, rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis, thiab psoriasis [115]. Cutaneous o tau txuas rau ntau yam kab mob, suav nrog mob qog noj ntshav thiabdiscoid lupus erythematosus (DLE) nrog rau pom pom kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Txawm li cas los xij, pom cov tawv nqaij tuaj yeem txo qis thiab tiv thaiv los ntawm kev siv txhua hnub ntawm cov tshuaj antioxidants lossis tshuaj tiv thaivcosmeceuticals, ua ke nrog kev noj zaub mov nplua nuj nyob hauv cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob thiab antioxidant ntxiv [116]. Microbiologicaland immunological yam thiab cov tshuaj lom neeg muaj peev xwm pib lub inflammatory teb los ntawm activating ntau yam humoral thiab cellular mediators xws li prostaglandins (PGs), leukotrienes (LTs), NO, qog necrosisfactor-alpha (TNF-), thiab cytokines ntawm interleukin (IL) tsev neeg [117]. Dermal thiab epidermal cell constitutively tsim ntau yam cytokines thiab eicosanoids uas ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev saib xyuas homeostasis thiab kev tswj hwm ntawm daim tawv nqaij o, thiab nws qib tau tswj hwm los ntawm cov xwm txheej ntawm lub cev thiab pathophysiological [118,119]. Arachidonic acid (AA), ib tug precursor ntawm pro-inflammatoryeicosanoids yog tso tawm los ntawm daim nyias nyias phospholipids nyob rau hauv lub chav kawm ntawm inflammatory ua kom thiab ces metabolized rau PGs thiab LTs [118,119]. Ntau lub tswv yim tau tshawb xyuas los tswj kev tsim cov lipid ntau dhau ntawm kev sib txawv ntawm cov txheej txheem biochemical, xws li inhibition ofphospholipase A2 (PLA2), ua rau cov enzyme rau AA tso tawm, blockage ntawm cyclooxygenase (COX), andlipoxygenase (LOX) txoj hauv kev, thiab txoj kev loj hlob ntawm receptor antagonists tawm tsam platelet-activatingfactor (PAF) thiab LTs [118,119]. Feem ntau cov kev kho mob rau cov kab mob dermal xws li cov tshuaj nonsteroidalanti-inflammatory (NSAIDs), cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob, thiab tshuaj pleev corticosteroids tsom kom txo qhov mob [120]. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov kev kho mob no tuaj yeem ua rau muaj kev cuam tshuam tsis zoo rau kev kho mob, nrog rau cov kev tsis zoo xws li atrophy, osteoporosis, rog, thiab glaucoma [121]. Txawm hais tias nws yog qhov tseem ceeb rau kev tshawb nrhiav rau cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob tshiab uas muaj qhov cuam tshuam tsawg dua, qhov kev sim siab yog qhov nyuaj heev vim qhov nyuaj ntawm cov txheej txheem inflammatory thiab nws lub luag haujlwm hauv kev tiv thaiv tus tswv tsev. Txawm li cas los xij, tsis ntev los no kev txhim kho kom tshem tawm cov txheej txheem cuam tshuam nrog kev mob tshwm sim tau tso cai rau kev txheeb xyuas cov hom phiaj tshiab [122].

Xav txog cov peev txheej hauv hiav txwv, tsis muaj leej twg tuaj yeem piv nrog hiav txwv cucumbers nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm kev kho mob zoo [123–125]. Hiav txwv cucumbers, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog Stichopus Hermann, feem ntau hu ua "gamat emas", tau ntev tau lees paub nyob rau hauv pej xeem cov tshuaj rau kev kho mob ntawm myriadof kab mob, nrog rau qhov txhab kho [126]. Hauv kev tshawb fawb vivo, siv ntau hom tsiaj ua qauv, pom tau tias qhov txhab kho nrog hiav txwv dib rho tawm tau zoo dua thiab kho tau sai dua thaum piv rau cov tsis muaj kev kho mob. Cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm cov extracts ntawm ntau hom ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers rau qhov txhab raug ntxias nyob rau hauv cov tsiaj tau pom kom ceev lub qhov txhab contraction tus nqi, uas yog ib tug txheej txheem tseem ceeb nyob rau hauv lub qhov txhab-kho theem [127]. Tsis tas li ntawd, kev kho mob kub hnyiab nrog S. Lub teb chaws Yelemees-raws li hydrogel qhov txhab hnav khaub ncaws ua rau muaj qhov txhab mob loj heev nyob rau hnub 21 thiab 28 tom qab hlawv qhov txhab. Ntawm qhov tsis sib xws, tsis muaj qhov sib txawv tseem ceeb tau pom nyob rau hnub 7 thiab 14 [128]. Cov nyhuv no yuav yog vim qhov sib txuas ntawm "gamat hydrogel (S. hermanii) hnav khaub ncaws" uas ua rau nws muaj peev xwm khaws tau cov khoom xyaw nquag thiab ncua lawv cov khoom xa tuaj rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij raug mob, yog li ua yeeb yam tom qab theem ntawm qhov txhab kho. Qhov kom zoo dua ntawm no hydrogel hnav khaub ncaws yog hais tias cov tshuaj lom neeg muaj zog yog immobilized rau lub sij hawm ntev hauv hydrogel matrices, yog li tsim kom muaj kev ruaj ntseg thiab tswj kev tso tawm uas tuaj yeem txhim kho kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov dej hiav txwv dib extract thaum lub sij hawm kho cov ntaub so ntswg thiab zoo cuam tshuam nrog cov qhov txhab thiab pab txhawb kev ua haujlwm. kev kho mob ntawm theem tom qab [128]. Lwm hom dib hiav txwv, S. choronotus, kuj pom tau los ua thaum pib ntawm qhov txhab kho [125]. Interestingly, nws cov aqueous extract tau pom cov tshuaj tiv thaiv antioxidant kwv yees li 80 feem pua ​​​​siab dua nws cov organic sib piv [129]. Txij li thaum muaj cov dawb radicals ntau dhau los cuam tshuam nrog kev kho qhov txhab tsis zoo, yog li cov dawb radicals scavengingby antioxidants tam sim no nyob rau hauv aqueous extracts ntawm cucumbers yuav ua rau lub qhov txhab zoo. Tsis tas li ntawd, fatty acids muaj pes tsawg leeg tsom xam pom tias cov aqueous extract muaj ntau dua cov ntsiab lus ntawm docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) (21) (Daim duab 4) tshaj cov organic extract [130]. Nws tau kwv yees tias DHA (21) tuaj yeem txhawb kev tsim cov cytokine pro-inflammatory ntawm qhov chaw mob, yog li pab tswj kev kis kab mob nrog rau kev npaj cov ntaub so ntswg rau kev kho ntxiv los ntawm kev txhim kho phagocytosis, txhawb kev tsiv teb tsaws ntawm keratinocytes ntawm qhov txhab, ua rau fibroblast chemotaxis thiab proliferation, ua rau ECM cov proteins tawg, nrog rau kev tswj hwm kev tso tawm ntawm lwm cov cytokines thiab cov khoom loj hlob [131]. Dhau li ntawd, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) (22) thiab DHA (21) (Daim duab 4), cov fatty acids loj hauv hiav txwv cucumbers, kuj cuam tshuam cov txheej txheem ntawm o los ntawm stimulation zus tau tej cov resolvins (uas feem ntau inhibit IL{28}} ntau lawm. ) thiab cov tshuaj tiv thaiv (uas inhibit TNF- thiab IL-1 ntau lawm) los ntawm COX-2 thiab 5-LOX txoj kev [132]. Txoj kev tshawb fawb ntawm lwm hom ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers kuj tau lees paub tias lawv cov aqueous extracts muaj txiaj ntsig zoo hauv qhov txhab zoo dua li lawv cov organicextracts. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers nyob rau hauv chaw kho mob kuj tau kawm los ntawm kev muab cov hiav txwv dib rho tawm rau hauv Carbopol® gel puag thiab siv tshuaj pleev rau cov neeg mob ntshav qab zib footulcer rau 12 lub lis piam. Cov txiaj ntsig tau pom tias theem ntawm TNF- nruab nrab ntawm qhov pib thiab lub lim tiam 8, 10, thiab 12 tau sib txawv [133]. Nws tau pom tias cov ntsiab lus saponin hauv cov extracts ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers tuaj yeem ua lub luag haujlwm hauv kev tiv thaiv lipopolysaccharide-induced zus tau tej cov TNF- los ntawm nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB), uas yog ib tug transcription yam uas tswj cov transcription ntawm ntau genes koom nyob rau hauv lub txheej txheem mob [134,135].

Lwm qhov chaw marine-derived nrog lub qhov txhab-kho muaj peev xwm yog fucoidan (23) (Daim duab 4). Fucoidan (23) yog ib qho fucose-enriched thiab sulfated polysaccharide pom nyob rau hauv ECM ntawm brownalgae. Fucoidan (23) yog tsim los ntawm l-fucose, sulfate pawg, thiab ib lossis ntau qhov me me ntawm lwm cov suab thaj [136]. Raws li txoj cai, fucoidan (23) muaj ob hom homofucose: cov uas muaj rov ua dua (1 → 3)-l-fucopyranose, thiab lwm yam uas muaj kev sib hloov thiab rov ua dua (1 → 3)- thiab (1 → 4)-l-fucopyranose [ 137] ib. Cov chav kawm ntawm polysaccharides no tau raug tshawb xyuas ntau rau nws cov peev txheej biotechnological vim nws cov tshuaj siv tshuaj ntau ntau thiab nws cov khoom siv tsis muaj tshuaj lom [138]. Tshwj xeeb, tsis tshua muaj molecular hnyav fucoidans (LMF), uas muaj bioavailability hauv cov ntaub so ntswg zoo dua thaum piv rau siab molecular hnyav fucoidans (HMF), tau pom tias muaj txiaj ntsig zoo xws li kev tiv thaiv kab mob thiab angiogenesis, qhia txog lawv qhov chaw kho mob muaj peev xwm kho qhov txhab kho [108 ]. Hauv cov ntsiab lus no, Park et al. tau tshawb xyuas qhov txhab-kho cov khoom ntawm LMF, uas tau muab rho tawm los ntawm marine xim av seaweed Undaria pinnatifida, nyob rau hauv ib tug tag nrho-thicknessdermal excision nas qauv nyob rau hauv kev sib piv nrog ib tug coj mus muag khoom Madecassol Care™, uas muaj 1 feem pua ​​Centella Asiatica. Lawv tau pom tias cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm LMF tau pom muaj txiaj ntsig zoo dua ntawm qhov txhab mob, nyob rau hauv kev siv tshuaj, thiab lub sij hawm kaw ib nrab (CT50) sai dua thaum piv rau Madecassol Care™, qhia tias LMF txhim kho qhov txhab kho los ntawm nws cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob. los yog nce qib ntawm granulation theem. Cov txiaj ntsig no tau txais kev txhawb nqa los ntawm qhov tseeb tias fucoidans kho cov teebmeem los ntawm kev txo qis ntawm neutrophil adhesion thiab leukocyte recruitment, los yog inhibition ntawm pro-inflammatory cytokines tso tawm, raws li yav dhau los qhia [139]. Tsis tas li ntawd, LMF kuj tseem ua kom muaj cov kab mob angiogenesis thiab collagen deposition nyob rau hauv lub granular cov ntaub so ntswg, yog li pab txhawb rov epithelialization. Qhov tshwm sim no tuaj yeem piav qhia los ntawm qhov tseeb tias collagen deposition thiab tsim ntawm nruj cross-links ntawm collagen moleculesand nrog rau lwm cov proteins, nrog rau kev loj hlob ntawm ntau lub hlwb nyob rau hauv cov ntaub so ntswg granular, yuav ua kom lub qhov txhab contraction [140]. Ntawm qhov tod tes, MMPs, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog MMP2 thiab MMP9, paub tias yog tus neeg kho kom haum xeeb ntawm collagen matrix thaum kho thiab qhov txhab rov epithelialization [141]. Hauv cov ntsiab lus no, nws tau pom tias kev kho mob nrog LMF ua rau muaj kev nce hauv MMP9 rau hnub 7 tom qab kev kho mob raws li kev siv tshuaj, qhia tias LMF ua rau muaj kev hloov pauv ntawm lub cev nqaij daim tawv ntawm MMP9 txhawm rau txhawm rau kho cov ntaub so ntswg hauv cov lus teb rau kev tso tawm ntau ntxiv. cytokines los yog lawv tiv thaiv los ntawm proteolytic degradation. Tsis tas li ntawd, kev kho LMF ua rau txo qis lipid peroxidation (malondialdehyde), thaum cov tshuaj antioxidants xws li SOD, CAT, thiab GSH qib tau nce. Cov kev tshawb fawb yav dhau los tau tshaj tawm tias cov ntsiab lus sulfate ntawm fucoidan (23) (Daim duab 4) [142] tau ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv nws cov haujlwm antioxidant, yog li cov pab pawg sulfate ntau hauv LMF tuaj yeem ua rau nws muaj zog antioxidant. Ntawm qhov tod tes, muaj cov pov thawj muaj zog uas hloov pauv kev loj hlob-beta (TGF-) thiab vascular endothelialgrowth factor (VEGF) tau koom nrog hauv kev txhim kho qhov txhab kho mob los ntawm kev ua kom cov fibroblastrepopulation thiab angiogenesis [143], thiab txij li thaum LMF kev kho mob kuj pom. ib qho kev nce ntxiv hauv TGF- thiab VEGF receptor-2 (VEGFR2) immunoreactive hlwb, qhov tshwm sim no kuj tuaj yeem pab txhawb rau nws lub qhov txhab kho mob.

CISTANCHE EXTRACT

3. Cosmeceuticals los ntawm Marine Origin

Kev paub ntau ntxiv ntawm cov neeg tau txais kev pab rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntuj tau ua rau muaj kev nce rau hauv kev tshawb fawb txog kev nplua nuj rau cov tshuaj lom neeg lom neeg rau kev siv tshuaj pleev ib ce [9]. Tshuaj pleev ib ce uas koom nrog marine-raws li extracts los yog tebchaw yog nce launched los ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce kev lag luam raws li ib tug zuj zus ntawm cov neeg siv khoom xav tau cov khoom los ntawm tej yam ntuj tso chaw [6]. Lub globaltendency rau cov khoom suav hais tias noj qab nyob zoo, ib puag ncig muaj kev ruaj ntseg, thiab ecologically tus phooj ywg tau coj cov tshuaj pleev ib ce kev lag luam los nqis peev ntau thiab ntau dua hauv kev tshawb fawb thiab kev tsim kho (R&D) ntawm cov khoom tshiab uas muaj cov tshuaj los yog cov khoom rho tawm los ntawm cov peev txheej ntuj [144]. Yog li ntawd, ntau thiab ntau tus neeg tau txais kev pab tab tom nrhiav rau cov khoom kom zoo nkauj nrog cov tshiab bioactive compounds raws li cov khoom xyaw tau los ntawm cov khoom siv ntuj tsim vim lawv cov txiaj ntsig zoo heev thaum piv rau lawv cov khoom tsis yog ntuj. Txawm hais tias cog cov khoom ntuj tsim tau ib txwm siv (thiab tseem siv tau) ua cov khoom xyaw nquag rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, cov kev pabcuam hauv hiav txwv tsis ntev los no tau tshwm sim los ua qhov chaw nplua nuj ntawm cov txheej txheem sib txawv nrog ntau yam ntawm cov khoom lom neeg uas tos rau kev tshawb nrhiav.cosmeceuticals/ khoom noj khoom haus. Cov cheeb tsam hauv hiav txwv sawv cev rau kev sib txawv ntawm biodiversity, uas yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm kev sib txawv ntawm cov tshuaj lom neeg loj nrog lub peev xwm loj rau kev tsim kho tshuaj, tshuaj pleev ib ce, khoom noj khoom haus, molecular probes, finechemicals, thiab agrochemicals [145]. Ntxiv mus, nrog rau ntau yam tshiab marine hom tseem yuav pom, kev tshawb fawb ntxiv yuav tsum tau ua kom txaus siab rau qhov muaj peev xwm loj uas ib puag ncig marine muaj rau [9]. Cov kab mob hauv hiav txwv tau hloov kho biochemical thiab physiological mechanisms uas suav nrog kev tsim cov khoom siv bioactive uas tsim nyog rau kev yug me nyuam, kev sib txuas lus, thiab kev tiv thaiv kev tawm tsam, kev kis kab mob, thiab kev sib tw [146]. Tsis xav tsis thoob, ntau ntawm cov tebchaw no muaj peev xwm zoo licosmeceuticalslos yog nutricosmetics vim lawv cov tshuaj tua kab mob antioxidant, tiv thaiv kab mob, tiv thaiv kev ua xua, tiv thaiv kev laus, tiv thaiv wrinkle,anti-tyrosinase, MMP inhibitory kev ua ub no nrog rau kev tiv thaiv UV [147].

Tam sim no, kev tshawb nrhiav cov khoom lag luam marine tshiab nyob ntawm kev sau cov qauv uas muaj qhov tsis zoo yog lawv qhov kev ruaj khov thiab rov ua dua tshiab. Cov teeb meem Sustainability yog txuam nrog ntau cov biomass uas feem ntau xav tau rau kev tshawb nrhiav tshuaj, qhov teeb meem kev rov ua dua muaj feem cuam tshuam nrog kev hloov pauv ib puag ncig thiab kev hloov hauv zej zog rau cov tshuaj ecology ntawm lub hom phiaj kab mob [148]. Cov tib neeg ntawm tib hom qauv coj los ntawm ntau thaj chaw lossis lub caij sib txawv yuav tsis muaj cov tshuaj tib yam thiab yog li tsis tuaj yeem lav qhov khoom ntawm lub hom phiaj metabolite [149]. Txawm li cas los xij, cov txheej txheem tsis ntev los no hauv aquaculture ofmarine invertebrates tuaj yeem muab lwm txoj hauv kev los daws ob qhov teeb meem no, vim tias tsiaj txhu biomass tuaj yeem tsim ua txuas ntxiv siv homogenous ib puag ncig [150].

3.1. Macroalgae-Drived Compounds

Feem ntau, marine xim av thiab liab algae feem ntau yog siv los uacosmeceuticalshauv cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce [151]. Kev lig kev cai, macroalgae lossis seaweeds tau siv los tsim cov hydrocolloids xws li agar, carrageenan, thiab alginates. Tsis tas li ntawd, qee hom xim av thiab liab macroalgaeare siv hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce vim lawv cov vitamins, minerals, amino acids, suab thaj, thiab lipids cov ntsiab lus, ntxiv rau qhov muaj lwm cov tshuaj lom neeg lom neeg [152,153]. Macroalgae nquag siv hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce yog Ulva Lactuca, Ascophyllum nodosum, Laminaria longicruris, L. saccharina, L. digitata, Alaria esculenta, Chondrus crispus, Mastocarpus stellatus, thiab ntau hom Porphyra. Nquag, algae teb rau ntau yam kev ntxhov siab, uas lawv raug nyob rau hauv ib puag ncig ntuj, los ntawm kev tsim ntau yam tshuaj sib txuas rau lawv cov kev tiv thaiv. Ntau ntawm cov tebchaw no suav tias muaj txiaj ntsig zoo licosmeceuticalsrau kev tu tawv nqaij rau kev tiv thaiv UV hluav taws xob, oxidativestress, thiab kev laus, smoothening, moisturizing, thiab whitening, thiab kuj yog pigments rau ntau yam khoom kom zoo nkauj [144]. Cov khoom ua haujlwm ntawm macroalgae tau siv ntau xyoo los ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce hauv kev lag luam ua emollients, cov tshuaj ua kom tawv nqaij, thiab cov khoom siv viscosity-tswj, feem ntau yog vim lawv cov khoom siv physicochemical. Lawv cov khoom lag luam loj, xws li agar thiab carrageenan, tau siv los ua gelling, thickening, thiab stabilizers hauv cov khoom kom zoo nkauj nrog rau nutraceuticals [154].

Brown algae suav txog kwv yees li 59 feem pua ​​​​ntawm tag nrho cov macroalgae cog hauv ntiaj teb, ua raws li cov algae liab ntawm 40 feem pua ​​thiab ntsuab algae tsawg dua 1 feem pua. Macroalgae tuaj yeem cog rau ntawm ntug dej hiav txwv ntawm qhov loj me nrog kev loj hlob sai, thiab muaj peev xwm tswj tau cov khoom ntawm lawv cov bioactive compounds xws li cov proteins, polyphenols, thiab pigments los ntawm kev tswj cov kab lis kev cai [155]. Ib tug lipophilic extract ntawm ib tug xim av alga Alaria esculenta tau zoo nyob rau hauv qhov txo ntawm cutaneous progerin [156], nws over-production yog tshwm sim los ntawm cellular senescence thiab zuj zus telomeres puas, uas tshwm sim ib txwm [157]. Los ntawm kev siv cov gelatin digestionassay tshiab los tshawb xyuas cov teebmeem hauv vitro inhibitory ntawm Ecklonia cava-derived phlorotannin ntawm MMPactivity, Kim li al. tau pom nws ua tiav inhibition ntawm cov kab mob collagenase-1 kev ua haujlwm [158].A rhiab heev fluorimetric assay qhia tias phlorotannin 6,6'-dieckol (24) los ntawm E. cava (Daim duab 5) tuaj yeem cuam tshuam MMP2 thiab MMP9 cov dej num los ntawm qhov ua kom muaj NF-κB txoj hauv kev.Ntxiv rau, 7-phloroeckol (4) (Daim duab 1) kuj tau nthuav tawm zoo heev inhibitory teebmeem ntawm pigmentation, uas yog tej zaum vim nws cov tyrosinase inhibitory kev ua, thiab nws tau thov raws li daim tawv nqaij- whiteningagent [154,159–161]. Eckol (25) thiab dieckol (26) (Daim duab 5), phlorotannins los ntawm E. stolonifera extract kuj qhia txog qhov muaj zog inhibition ntawm MMP1 qhia [162]. Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol (28) (Daim duab 5), phlorotannin, cais los ntawm marine xim av alga Ishige okamurae, nthuav tawm lub zog siab rau cov tawv nqaij dawb [163], ntxiv rau kev tiv thaiv cov khoom tiv thaiv DNA puas raug cuam tshuam los ntawm UVB hluav taws xob ntawm tus Tsov tus tw thiab morphological. hloov pauv hauv fibroblasts. Cov khoom siv biological ob ntawm diphlorethohydroxycarmalol (28) ua rau nws yog ib tus neeg sib tw ua kom zoo nkauj [159] .Phloroglucinol derivatives los ntawm cov xim av algae kuj muaj tyrosinase inhibitory kev ua si vim lawv muaj peev xwm chelate tooj liab hauv cov enzyme no [164]. Hauv vivo cov kev tshawb fawb tau pom tias ob qho tib si kev noj haus thiab tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm polyphenols los ntawm xim av algae suppressed COX-2 qhia thiab cell proliferation.Cov txiaj ntsig no qhia txog lub luag haujlwm ntawm cov xim av algal polyphenols uas muaj peev xwm tiv thaiv kab mob qog noj ntshav thiab lwm yam teebmeem ntawm UVB tawg. [165]. Ntawm qhov tod tes, dolabelladienetriol (27) (Daim duab 5), ib qho dolabellane diterpene cais los ntawm cov xim av marine algaDictyota pfaffii tau pom los txo qis kev tsim cov TNF- thiab nitric oxide (NO) los ntawm inhibition ntawm NFκB, yog li sib tham txog nws cov tshuaj tiv thaiv. [122]. Tag nrho cov pov thawj no qhia tau hais tias bioactive compounds tau los ntawm seaweeds tau cog lus rau kev tu tawv nqaij [165]. Lwm cov seaweed tseem ceeb yog Laminaria japonica, uas yog hu ua "kombu" nyob rau hauv Nyiv, yog siv los tsim tshwj xeeb algae-based active cov khoom xyaw rau kev tiv thaiv formulations tiv thaiv UV hluav taws xob vim nws muaj ib tug heev concentrated daim ntawv ntawm marine minerals thiab kab kawm. Raws li cov alga no kuj tsim cov tshuaj tiv thaiv zoo heev uas tiv thaiv nws los ntawm kev ziab tawm thaum dej ntws tsawg, nws cov extract tuaj yeem tshawb xyuas raws li lub peev xwm ntawm daim tawv nqaij moisturizer thiab ua kom tawv nqaij firmness [166]. Cov alga no kuj yog qhov muaj txiaj ntsig ntawm fucoxanthin (19) (Daim duab 3), uas muaj ntau yam zoo rau kev tu tawv nqaij xws li antioxidant thiabanti-tyrosinasekev ua ub no, antimelanogenesis hauv melanoma, thiab tiv thaiv UVB-induced skinpigmentation. Tsis tas li ntawd, fucoxanthin (19) kev kho qhov ncauj tau txo qis qhov mRNA kev nthuav qhia ntawm melanogenesis ntsig txog tyrosinase enzyme, tawm tswv yim tias cov tshuaj no ua rau tsis zoo rau cov txheej txheem themelanogenesis ntawm qib transcriptional los ntawm kev tawm tsam ntawm prostaglandin synthesis thiab melanogenic stimulant receptors (neurotrophin, melanogenesis, PGE-2. Ib.) [167]. Lwm hom Laminaria nrog lub peev xwm ua kom zoo nkauj yog L. saccharina, uas nws cov extract yog nplua nuj nyob rau hauv cov protein, vitamins, minerals, thiab carbohydrates. Cov extract ntawm cov alga no tau tshaj tawm tias muaj cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob thiab kho kom zoo, ntxiv rau kev tswj xyuas sebaceous gland kev ua haujlwm [168].Qhov feem ntau siv tau xim av macroalgae ntawm Sargassaceae tsev neeg, Hizikia fusiformis, tau tshaj tawm tias muaj cov tshuaj tiv thaiv tyrosinase flavonoid glycoside. [169]. Hauv vitro kev tshawb fawb ntawm methanol extract ntawm marine alga Corallina pilulifera (CPM) qhia tias nws tuaj yeem tiv thaiv UV-induced oxidative kev nyuaj siab thiab MMP2 thiab MMP9 kab lus hauv tib neeg dermal fibroblast (HDF) hlwb. Ib qho kev sib xyaw ntawm algal extracts los ntawm liab algae Meristotheca dakarensis thiab Jania Rubens, muaj nyob rau hauv kev ua lag luam li dermocea® (Gelyma), tau thov los txhawb keratin, GAGs, thiab collagens kuv thiab III synthesis [170]. Tag nrho cov kev tshawb fawb no taw qhia rau lub peev xwm loj ntawm marine xim av thiab liab algae, nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm cov extracts los yog purecompounds, raws li muaj nqis marine-derived.cosmeceuticals.

Extracts ntawm ntsuab algae kuj tau muab tso rau hauv ntau yam khoom kom zoo nkauj. Cov extract ntawm Codium tomentosum tau lees tias yog qhov zoo ntawm glucuronic acid (38), thiab nws yog siv rau kev faib dej hauv daim tawv nqaij nrog rau kev tiv thaiv daim tawv nqaij los ntawm kev puas tsuaj ntawm ib puag ncig qhuav [5]. Extracts ntawm ntsuab alga Chlamydocapsa sp., tseem hu ua daus alga, yog siv rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev yees duab nyob rau hauv cov khoom rau kev tu tawv nqaij thiab tiv thaiv plaub hau. Tsis tas li ntawd, nws tuaj yeem tiv thaiv qhov poob ntawm qhov cuam tshuam los ntawm kev cuam tshuam ib puag ncig, txo TEWL, thiab zam kev tsim wrinkles tom qab raug UV hluav taws xob, txias lossis qhuav mob [171].

3.2. Marine Invertebrate-Drived Compounds

3.2.1. Marine Sponge-Derived Compounds

Thaum soj ntsuam nrog cov metabolites theem nrab uas tsim los ntawm cov tsiaj txhu hauv cov tsiaj txhu, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov marinesponges, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas yuav tsum xav txog lawv txoj kev sib raug zoo nrog cov kab mob sib txuas nrog cov kab mob thiab cov phytoplankton, vim qee qhov ntawm lawv cov kab mob sib cais bioactive theem nrab metabolites tau pom zoo los ntawm cov pab pawg ua haujlwm ntawm cov enzymes los ntawm cov kab mob cuam tshuam [ 172].Cov kab mob no tuaj yeem tseem ceeb heev rau cov tshuaj tshiab,cosmeceuticals, thiab nutraceuticals vim tias lawv yog cov khoom siv txuas ntxiv dua tshiab ntawm cov khoom ntuj sib txawv [173,174]. Tseeb tiag, marine sponges raug suav tias yog cov chaw tso khoom ntawm marine microbial ntau haiv neeg, uas tuaj yeem muab txoj hauv kev tshiab hauv marine biotechnology [175]. Qhov no yog pov thawj los ntawm qhov tseeb hais tias ntau daim txhuam cev-derived metabolites zoo li cov kab mob thiab cov kab mob fungal los yog muaj nyob rau hauv chav kawm ntawm cov tebchaw feem ntau tsim los ntawm cov kab mob no [176]. Qee cov ntawv tshaj tawm tau lees paub tias qee qhov sib xyaw ua ke, Ameslikas cais tawm los ntawm marine sponge extracts, yog qhov tseeb biosynthesized los ntawm cov kab mob sib txuas nrog cov kab mob, txij li cov sponge mesohyl feem ntau nyob hauv cov kab mob, thiab ntau yam khoom ntuj raug cais los ntawm cov dej hiav txwv dej xws li tshuaj tua kab mob, tshuaj tua kab mob, thiab lwm yam. antifouling tebchaw zoo li cov metabolites tsim los ntawm marine microbes [176]. Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv ntawm cov kab mob, lawv muab lawv hosts nrog cov khoom ntawm lawv cov metabolism, yog li muab cov sponges nkag mus rau cov kab mob tshwj xeeb xws li autotrophy, nitrogen fixation, thiab nitrification. Cov kab mob no tseem tuaj yeem ua cov txheej txheem metabolic pov tseg uas ua rau cov pob txha pob txha ruaj khov thiab muab kev tiv thaiv UV hluav taws xob [177–179].Thiab, cov sponges hauv hiav txwv kuj tso cov enzymes los sib tw rau hauv av, ncua kev loj hlob ntawm cov kab mob thiab cov fungi kom nthuav tawm hosting los ntawm tsis tau caw. cov qhua, thiab cov enzymes no tuaj yeem siv los ua daim tawv nqaij-whiteningagents hauv ntau hom tshuaj pleev ib ce [147]. Txawm hais tias tsuas yog ob peb lub tebchaw bioactive cais tawm los ntawm marine sponges tau tshawb pom los ntawm kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce kom deb li deb, muaj ntau cov ntaub so ntswg metabolites nrog cosmetic peev xwm. Piv txwv li, halistanol trisulphate (29) (Daim duab 6), C-29 steroidal detergent cais tawm ntawm Indo-Pacific daim txhuam cev Haliclona sp. tau pom tias inhibit lawv qhov kev loj hlob ntawm tyrosinase rau ib daim ntawv uas cuam tshuam nrog melanin synthesis nyob rau hauv pigmented humanmelanoma cell kab, MM418 [180]. Gagunin D (30) (Daim duab 6), muaj cov pa oxygenated diterpene ntawm 10,13-bis-epi-homoverrucosane scaffold, cais tawm los ntawm marine daim txhuam cev Phorbas sp., tau pom tias muaj kev ua haujlwm ntawm lub sijhawmlanogenic los ntawm kev tawm tsam ntawm tyrosinase qhia thiab nce tus nqi ntawm tyrosinasedegradation, ntxiv rau qhov inhibition ntawm tyrosinase enzymatic kev ua si, nyob rau hauv nas melan-ib hlwb thiab reconstructed tib neeg daim tawv nqaij qauv [18]. Ntxiv mus, gagunin D (30) kuj suppressed cov kev qhia ntawm cov proteins txuam nrog melanosome hloov. Vim nws cov khoom siv ntau yam, gagunin D (30) thiab nws cov analogs tuaj yeem suav tias yog cov neeg sib tw ua kom tawv nqaij dawb.cosmeceuticals[18].Marine sponges kuj paub tias tsim ntau tshaj 40 carotenoids [181], feem ntau yog arylcarotenoids xws li isorenieratene, renieratene, thiab renierapurpurin. Txij li cov sponges tsis muaj biosyntheticmachinery los synthesize carotenoids, cov pigments ncaj qha los ntawm kev noj zaub mov los yog kev hloov pauv hauv metabolic. Carotenoids ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv marine sponges nrog rau cov photoprotectiveand antioxidant functions ntawm lub teeb lub zog dissipation thiab dawb radical detoxification vim raug ntau dhau hnub ci hluav taws xob thiab teeb meem UV hluav taws xob [182]. Dhau li ntawm aryl carotenoids, cov xim liab pigments mytiloxanthin derivatives, 19-butanoyloxymytiloxanthin (31), thiab 19-hexanoyloxymytiloxanthin (32) (Daim duab 6) kuj raug rho tawm los ntawm cov kua txiv kab ntxwv-xim xim sponge Phakellia. Nws yog qhov nthuav kom nco ntsoov tias mytiloxanthin, ib qho metabolite ntawm fucoxanthin (19) (Daim duab 3), nthuav tawm yuav luag tib yam singletoxygen quenching thiab lipid peroxidation inhibitory kev ua ub no raws li cov astaxanthin (33) (Daim duab 6), tab sis nrog ntau dua kev ua si rau hydroxyl radical. [184]. Yog li ntawd, cov tshuaj no tuaj yeem muaj txiaj ntsig zoo licosmeceuticalsrau cov khoom siv tawv nqaij.

Marine sponge-derived collagen kuj tau raug soj ntsuam rau nws biocompatibility thiab regenerativepotential [185–187]. Ib qho hauv vitro toxicity, antioxidant kev ua, kho lub peev xwm, thiab photoprotection oftrypsin-digested collagen extracts, kuj hu ua marine collagen hydrolysates (MCHs), los ntawm marinesponge Chondrosia reniformis raug soj ntsuam [188], vim nws cov yam ntxwv physicochemical thiab dynamic plasticity [189,19] . Txoj kev tshawb no tau ua raws li qhov tseeb tias collagen hydrolysates los ntawm ntau qhov chaw qhia pom zoo biocompatibility, muaj peev xwm nkag mus, thiab tiv thaiv cov tawv nqaij hauv cov qauv kev sim sib txawv. Nws tau pom tias plaub MCHs tau nthuav tawm tsis yog tsuas yog tsis muaj tshuaj lom thiab muaj txiaj ntsig zoo antioxidant los ntawm kev txhawb nqa kev tshem tawm ROS tab sis kuj muaj peev xwm kho tau zoo los ntawm kev txhawb nqa cov theem kev loj hlob ntxiv. Cov ntaub ntawv no qhib txoj kev rau daim ntawv thov ntawm cov MCHs licosmeceuticalslos kho cov tawv nqaij puas lossis photoaged [188] .Txawm li cas los xij, kev tshawb fawb ntxiv yuav tsum tau ua kom paub tseeb tias cov khoom lag luam pheej hmoo ua ntej lawv tuaj yeem tso rau hauv khw.

Cov hexane, methanol, thiab ethanol extracts ntawm marine sponge Acanthella cavernosa raug soj ntsuam rau lawv cov tshuaj tua kab mob thiab tshuaj tua kab mob tiv thaiv P. acnes, nrog rau lawv cov antioxidantactivity; Txawm li cas los xij, tsuas yog ethanol extract tau nthuav tawm hauv vitro tshuaj tua kab mob thiab tshuaj tua kab mob tiv thaiv kab mob no. Yog li ntawd, daim txhuam cev dej hiav txwv no muaj peev xwm siv tau los ua cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce rau kev tiv thaiv pob txuv [191].

3.2.2. Coral-Derived Compounds

Cov hmoov coral yog siv los ua cov khoom siv ruaj khov hauv ntau cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce vim nws lub cev, tshuaj lom neeg, thiab cov ntaub ntawv zoo li nws cov ntsiab lus ntxhia [147]. Chemically, itis muaj feem ntau ntawm calcium carbonate tab sis tej zaum yuav muaj txog 74 lwm yam minerals, tshwj tsis yog heavymetals. Cov hmoov coral yog siv rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los muab cov zaub mov rau daim tawv nqaij, tiv thaiv UV hluav taws xob, thiab tseem ua antioxidant, antiaging, antiacne, tawv nqaij softening, nrog rau kev npaj ntawm lipsticks thiab deodorants [147]. Txawm hais tias tsuas yog ob peb coral theem nrab metaboliteshave pom lawv siv licosmeceuticals, diterpene glycosides pseudopterosins A-D (34–37) (Daim duab 6), cais tawm ntawm Caribbean Gorgonian coral Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae, yog cov khoom lag luam tseem ceeb tshaj plaws hauv kev lag luam kom zoo nkauj [192]. Cov tshuaj no muaj ntau yam kev ua ub no xws li tshuaj tua kab mob thiab tshuaj tua kab mob [193–195], tshuaj tua kab mob [196], tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob [197] mus rau qhov txhab kho [198,199]. Cov tebchaw no yog thawj cov khoom lag luam muaj ntawv tso cai rau siv los ua ib qho ntxiv hauv Estée Lauder skincare thiab anti-wrinkle cosmetic khoom raws li lub npe Resilience® [200]. Txawm li cas los xij, feem ntau cov tswv cuab ntawm cov chav kawm ntawm cov tebchaw no rau lawv cov kev tiv thaiv kab mob yog pseudopterosin A (34) (Daim duab 6), uas inhibited phagosomeformation thiab ua rau intracellular calcium tso tawm los ntawm ib tug mechanism uas muab kev koom tes rau nws binding rau G protein-coupled receptor [201. ]. Lwm cov pseudopterosins nrog tshwj xeeb los tiv thaiv kev ua ub no kuj tau txheeb xyuas thiab tau pom zoo kom inhibit qhov synthesis ntawm leukotrienes thiab degranulation ntawm tib neeg neutrophils [122].

3.2.3. Hiav txwv Cucumber-Derived Compounds

Hiav txwv cucumbers kuj nplua nuj nyob rau hauv bioactive tebchaw xws li saponins, chondroitin sulfate, collagen, vitamin, amino acids, phenols, triterpene glycosides, carotenoids, bioactive peptides, minerals, fattyacids, thiab gelatin. Ntawm cov txiaj ntsig kev noj qab haus huv ntawm hiav txwv, cucumbers yog qhov txhab kho, neuroprotective, antitumor, anticoagulant, antimicrobial, thiab antioxidant zog [202]. Hiav txwv dib extracts muaj cov vitamins A, B1 (thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), B3 (niacin), thiab cov zaub mov (calcium, magnesium, hlau, zinc, selenium, germanium, strontium, tooj liab, manganese) uas tuaj yeem siv los ua.cosmeceuticalsornutricosmetics. Cov vitamins thiab minerals nyob rau hauv hiav txwv dib extracts yog yooj yim absorbed thiab muab moisture thaum stimulating lub renovation ntawm daim tawv nqaij puas hlwb [6]. Kev tshawb nrhiav tau ua nyob rau ntawm Hiav txwv Liab dib (Stichopus japonicus) extract tau pom zoo kawg nkaus inhibition ntawm melanogenesis inmelanoma thiab inhibited kev qhia ntawm tyrosinase thiab tyrosinase-related proteins (TYRP-1 thiab TYRP-2). Yoon et al. pom tau hais tias ethyl acetate feem ntawm S. japonicus extract inhibitedmelanogenesis hauv murine melanoma hlwb, txo cov protein ntawm melanocyte-specific isoform ntawm tyrosinase-related noob [203]. Kev ntsuam xyuas ntawm daim tawv nqaij-dawb huv los ntawm cov extractsof Sanguisorba officinalis thiab Stichopus japonicus pom tias cov extract ntawm S. japonicus nthuav tawm 61.78 feem pua ​​​​ inhibition ntawm tyrosinase kev ua, thaum sib tov ntawm ob qho tib si rho tawm pom 59.14 feem pua ​​inhibition.Interestingly, qhov sib tov ntawm ob qho tib si extracts tso tawm ib qho tseem ceeb inhibition ntawm melanogenesis hauv theclone M-3 cell melanocyte [204]. Ib feem glycoprotein ntawm boiled S. japonicus tau pom tias toenhance tyrosinase inhibitory kev ua si los ntawm 50 feem pua ​​[205]. Lub tyrosinase inhibition nthuav tawm los ntawm bioactiveextracts ntawm hiav txwv dib hom ua rau lawv cog lus ntawm daim tawv nqaij-whitening cosmeceuticals nrog ntau yam zoo xws li tsis tshua muaj cytotoxicity, kev nyab xeeb siab, thiab dav txais.

Lwm qhov tseem ceeb ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers yog lawv cov txiaj ntsig ntau ntawm cov tshiab sulfatedpolysaccharides, uas muaj peev xwm zoo rau kev loj hlob ntawm cosmeceuticals thiab pharmaceuticals.Lub sulfated polysaccharides cais tawm ntawm lub cev phab ntsa ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers, npe hu ua fucosylatedchondroitin sulfates (FuCS), yog structurally txawv ntawm sulfated. polysaccharides cais los ntawm lwm cov invertebrates, vertebrates, thiab algae [206]. Qhov siab ntawm cov sulfated glycans tuaj yeem faib ua peb feem: thawj feem muaj cov fucose siab, qhov thib ob muaj feem ntau yog fucoidan (23) (Daim duab 4), thiab qhov thib peb muaj feem ntau ntawm glucuronic acid (38) [206. ].FuCS raug cais tawm los ntawm ntau hom dib hiav txwv, suav nrog Ludwigothurea grisea, Pearsonothuriagraeffei, Holothuria vagabunda, H. edulis, H. Nobilis, Stichopus tremulus, S. japonicus, Isostichopus badionotus, Thelenata ananas, Aposticaudikilenium, Apostichopus thiab Apostichopus. . Raws li kev tsim qauv, FuCS yog tsim los ntawm cov khoom rov ua dua ntawm -d-glucuronic acid (38) thiab N-acetyl- -d-glucosamine (39) (Daim duab 7) [207,208]. Nws tau raug tshaj tawm tias hiav txwv dib fucoidan (Daim duab 4) nthuav tawm ntau yam kev ua ub no [209,210]. Piv txwv li, fucoidan (23) los ntawm Thelenota ananas tau pom tias muaj ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm superoxide radical scavenging kev ua si, uas yog txhim kho nrog cov ntsiab lus sulfate. Ntxiv mus, ntxiv 2-O-sulphation nyob rau hauv ib qho residue tsub kom cov radical-scavenging nyhuv, qhia hais tias cov tshuaj antioxidant ntawm fucoidan (23) muab los ntawm T. ananas nyob ntawm tus qauv sulfation thiab tsis tsuas yog nyob rau hauv cov ntsiab lus sulfate [211. ]. Ntxiv mus, cov ntsiab lus sulfate thiab cov yam ntxwv ntawm fucoidan (23) (Daim duab 4) muaj kev sib raug zoo nrog nws cov khoom lom neeg.Fucoidan (23) cais los ntawm S. japonicus, I. badionotus, thiab L. grisea qhia nthuav txog kev lom zem uas tuaj yeem siv tau. raws licosmeceuticals[209]. Raws li fucoidan (23) tuaj yeem ua rau MMP1activity hauv tib neeg cov tawv nqaij, nws tuaj yeem siv los ua tus neeg sawv cev tiv thaiv kev laus los tiv thaiv kev tsim wrinkle thiab skinphotoaging rau cov khoom kom zoo nkauj [209,210].

Hiav txwv cucumbers tau tshaj tawm tias muaj ntau cov collagen thiab mucopolysaccharideshat muaj kev nyab xeeb thaum piv nrog tsiaj collagen [42,57]. Tag nrho cov protein ntawm lub cev phab ntsa ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers muaj kwv yees li 70 feem pua ​​​​ntawm insoluble collagen fibers, uas tuaj yeem hloov mus rau gelatin tom qab hydrolysis. Collagen fibers tsis yooj yim soluble vim yog cov intermolecular cross-linksformed los ntawm non-helical telopeptides ntawm nyob ib sab collagen molecules, whereas gelatin yog ib tug soluble protein tau los ntawm ib nrab hydrolysis ntawm collagen [212,213]. Kev tshawb fawb ntawm hiav txwv dib collagen tau tsom mus rau kev ua haujlwm ntawm nws cov hydrolytic bioactive peptides, nrog rau cov ntaub so ntswg kho, tshuaj tua kab mob, antioxidant, thiab angiotensin-hloov enzyme inhibitory kev ua ub no. Vim lawv cov khoom antioxidant, collagen fibers tau siv rau hauv cov khoom tu tawv nqaij [214]. Lwm pawg ntawm cov khoom siv ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers yog saponins [215]. Cov tebchaw no ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev tiv thaiv tshuaj lom neeg thiab muaj ntau yam ntawm cov tshuaj pharmacological. Feem ntau ntawm hiav txwv cucumbersaponins feem ntau yog triterpene glycosides ntawm hom holostane [215]. Qee cov saponins tuaj yeem txo cov dandruff thiab alleviate psoriasis thaum siv tshuaj pleev, ntxiv rau txo qis hyperpigmentation, rosacea, ntxiv dag zog rau cov hlab ntsha, thiab txhim kho cov dej nkag. Txij li feem ntau ntawm cov kev tshawb fawb ntawm cov tshuaj pharmacological tau ua tiav ntawm cov nroj tsuag saponins, kev tshawb fawb tob tob onsaponins los ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers yog qhov tsim nyog los xyuas seb lawv puas muaj txiaj ntsig zoo ib yam li lawv cov nroj tsuag.

Lub tswv yim ecological tseem ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev tshawb nrhiav bioactive compounds pab tau raucosmeceuticalsthiab nutricosmetics. Ib qho piv txwv ntawm qhov no yog ib qho kev soj ntsuam uas MAAs muaj kev tiv thaiv nyob rau hauv ntau cov kab mob marine xws li holothuroids, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov dub hiav txwv dib Holothuriaatra [216], qhov uas lawv tshwm sim feem ntau nyob rau hauv nws cov epidermal ntaub so ntswg. Cov ntaub so ntswg epidermal ntawm H. atracontains sib txawv ntawm ntau MAAs xws li mycosporine-glycine (40), asterina-330 (41), shinorine (42), Porphyra -334 (43), palythine (44) , thiab palythinol (45) (Daim duab 7), whereas lub zes qe menyuam siav thiab brooded juveniles ntawm Cucumaria Ferrari muaj cov me me ntawm mycosporine-gly (40), shinorine (42), Porphyra-334 (43), thiab palythine ( 44) [217] ib. Cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub muaj cov liposomes ntawm Porphyra-334 (43), tau los ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers, tau pom tias txo cov lipid oxidation ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab cov tawv nqaij laus xws li tsis tshua muaj elasticity, wrinkle qhov tob, thiab roughness. Thaum irradiation, reactive intermediates tsis tau tsim los ntawm Porphyra-334 (43), qhia tias qhov sib xyaw no tau hloov pauv UV hluav taws xob rau hauv lub zog thermal tsis zoo [218]. Extracts ntawm tej hiav txwv dib hom, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog S. hermanni, H. fuscogilva, A. mauritiana, A. crassa, B. vitiensis, B. tenuissima, P. graeffei, B. cousteaui, H. atra, H. leucospilota, thiab H. Nobilis tau nthuav tawm cov kab mob muaj zog tiv thaiv kab mob [219,220].Cov ntaub ntawv qhia tias -cryptoxanthin (46), xanthophyll (47) (Daim duab 7), thiab -carotene (7) (Daim duab 2 ), cais los ntawm Egyptian hiav txwv dib H. scabra, nthuav tawm muaj zog tiv thaiv kab mob tiv thaiv S. aureus (ATCC 6538) [219]. Qhov kev tshawb pom no tuaj yeem yog ib qho tseem ceeb rau kev siv cov carotenoids uas muaj seacucumber extracts los tiv thaiv cov kab mob microbial hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce uas tuaj yeem ua rau cov khoom tsis zoo thiab ua rau muaj kev pheej hmoo loj rau cov neeg siv khoom [221].

Raws li tau hais ua ntej, qee qhov bioactive metabolites ntawm hiav txwv cucumbers tuaj yeem ua rau cov ntaub so ntswg kho thiab txhim kho qhov txhab-kho cov txheej txheem. Nws tau raug tshaj tawm tias GAGs ntawm cov ntaub so ntswg integumentary ntawm S. vastus thiab S. hermanni tau siv lub qhov txhab kho mob hauv nas [123,222]. Masre et al. qhia tias ib feem ntawm lub hiav txwv dib tegument muaj qhov siab tshaj plaws ntawm O-sulfated GAG cov ntsiab lus, ua raws li cov kab mob hauv nruab nrog cev thiab cov kua dej coelomic [222].

3.3. Marine Microorganisms-Drived Compound

Marine microorganisms, suav nrog cov fungi, fungi-zoo li protists, thiab cov kab mob tau nyiam cov neeg muaj peev xwm ua cov khoom siv lead ua [223,224]. Txawm hais tias muaj pes tsawg tus tsiaj ntawm cov kab mob no tau kawm txog tam sim no, ntau txhiab lub tebchaw tau raug cais tawm thiab txheeb xyuas, ntawm cov uas tsuas yog ib feem me me tau tshawb xyuas rau lawv cov khoom lag luam muaj txiaj ntsig zoo [225]. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov muaj koob meej ntawm cov khoom xyaw hauv hiav txwv tau ua rau muaj kev txhawj xeeb tias cov khoom lag luam loj lossis cov txheej txheem tsim khoom tsis ruaj khov tuaj yeem cuam tshuam cov ecosystem hauv hiav txwv uas twb muaj kev nyuaj siab. Txij li thaum muaj ntau cov kab mob marine yog cultivable thiab tuaj yeem ua cov kab lis kev cai fermenters, lawv nthuav qhia qhov txiaj ntsig zoo li cov peev txheej ruaj khov los tsim cov khoom muaj txiaj ntsig zoo [226].

3.3.1. Microalgae-Drived Compounds

Kev sib txawv ntawm microalgae ua rau lawv muaj qhov chaw nplua nuj ntawm bioactive tebchaw nrog kev siv tau zoo li nutraceuticals thiabcosmeceuticals. Microalgae kuj yog cov khoom noj khoom haus loj, feem ntau yog rau tsiaj noj vim lawv cov fatty acids, tocopherols, sterols, proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, thiab pigments (xws li chlorophyll thiab carotenoids) cov ntsiab lus [227]. Microalgae, suav nrog Chlorella, Spirulina, Dunaliella, thiab Odontella hom kuj tau siv los ua cov khoom xyaw hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce [33]. Nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawmcosmeceuticals, microalgae yog qhov txaus siab heev vim qee yam ntawm lawv ua rau cov tshuaj uas nqus UV hluav taws xob, uas tuaj yeem tiv thaiv dermal ECM deterioration, wrinkles, laxity, coarseness, thiab mottled pigmentation ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Piv txwv li, cyanobacterialsunscreen pigment scytonemin (6) (Daim duab 2) absorbs UVA / UVB hluav taws xob ntau dua li cov qauv kev lag luam [228]. Scytonemin (6) yog tsim los ntawm ob peb cyanobacteria xws li Nostoc sp., Calothrix crustacean, los yog Chlorogloeopsis sp. [229]. Lwm cov xim tiv thaiv UV yog -carotene (7) (Daim duab 2), lub ntsiab carotenoid tsim los ntawm halotolerant microalga Dunaliella salina, uas tuaj yeem tsim ntau dua 10 feem pua ​​​​ntawm -carotene (7) ntawm nws qhov hnyav qhuav [230]. Lwm lub npe nrov carotenoid tsim los ntawm microalgae yog astaxanthin (33) (Daim duab 6). Qhov kev sib xyaw no tau kawm ntau yam rau nws cov txiaj ntsig zoo rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij noj qab haus huv nrog rau nws cov teebmeem photoprotective tiv thaiv UV hluav taws xob [231].As astaxanthin (33) tuaj yeem txhim kho daim tawv nqaij noj qab haus huv los ntawm kev cuam tshuam rau ntau theem ntawm oxidativedamage cascade, ntxiv rau kev tiv thaiv ntau yam. inflammatory mediators [232], nws tau txiav txim siab tias muaj zog antioxidant thiab zoo heev los tiv thaiv kab mob. Tsis tas li ntawd, nws kuj nthuav tawm cov khoom siv tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob thiab DNA kho, uas ntxiv txhawb nws txoj kev siv los tswj cov tawv nqaij noj qab haus huv thiab tiv thaiv kev puas tsuaj ntawm daim tawv nqaij [231]. Haematococcus Pluvialis accumulates ntau ntawm astaxanthin (33), thiab nws yog suav tias yog lub hauv paus ntuj tsim rau tib neeg noj. Vim muaj qhov xav tau loj heev rau astaxanthin (33) raws li cosmeceutical / nutricosmetic, kev tsim khoom ruaj khov ntawm astaxanthin (33) byH. Pluvialis twb tau mus txog ib qho kev lag luam nplai [233].

Lwm cov carotenoids xws li lutein (48), canthaxanthin (49), lycopene (50), thiab zeaxanthin (51) (Daim duab 8) kuj tau txais qee qhov tseem ceeb hauv kev noj qab haus huv thiab tshuaj pleev ib ce [38]. Lutein (48) tau pom tias tiv thaiv cov epidermal thiab dermal txheej ntawm daim tawv nqaij tiv thaiv UV-induced oxidativedamage, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nyob rau hauv ua ke nrog rau lwm yam antioxidant thiab immunoprotective tshuaj [234]. daim tawv nqaij, plaub hau, thiab lwm yam, kom lawv nyob rau hauv ib tug noj qab nyob zoo tsos. Piv txwv li, qee cov proteins thiab lawv cov hydrolysates los ntawm Spirulina sp. muab cov khoom moisturizing hauv cov khoom siv plaub hau muab cov dej tuav, thiab lawv raug pom zoo rau atopic dermatitis lossis lwm yam tawv nqaij qhuav [144,235].Oil tau los ntawm cov khoom qhuav ntawm cov hlwb tsis zoo ntawm qee cov microalgae, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog los ntawm cov genusChlorella tau softened thiab smoothening zog. rau daim tawv nqaij thiab plaub hau [236,237]. Lwm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tawm tshiab rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce yog alguronic acid. Alguronic acidis tsis yog ib qho tshuaj dawb huv tab sis lub npe lag luam tsim rau kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm polysaccharides tsim los ntawm microalgae los ntawm "Solazyme" (tam sim no TerraVia Holdings, Inc.). Hauv xyoo 2011, kua qaub tau qhia rau lub lag luam raws li cov khoom muaj nyob hauv cov khoom lag luam hu ua Algenist anti-agingskincare formula [79].

Cov ntshiab extract ntawm marine microalga Nannochloropsis oculata muaj zeaxanthin (51) (Daim duab 8) thiab PUFA-muaj lipids uas yog nplua nuj nyob rau hauv EPA (22) (Daim duab 4) [238,239]. Cov extract ntawm no microalga, cog nyob rau hauv tshwj xeeb photobioreactors qhov twg lawv yog optimally raug rau lub teeb thiab CO2, tau ntawv tso cai rau ib tug natural skincare ingredient PEPHA®-TIGHT [240] rau antiaging formulation noj kom zoo dua ntawm ib tug ua ke ntawm covanti-tyrosinasethiab antioxidant zog ntawm zeaxanthin (51) thiab moisturizingeffect ntawm EPA (22).

Cov extract ntawm marine diatom Phaeodactylum tricornutum, nplua nuj nyob rau hauv fucoxanthin (19) (Daim duab 3) [241] thiab ω-3 PUFAs xws li EPA (22) thiab DHA (21) (Daim duab 4) [242], yog pom los txhawb kev ua haujlwm proteasomeactivity hauv daim tawv nqaij, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog keratinocytes, fibroblasts, lossis melanocytes. Cov extract no tuaj yeem tiv thaiv daim tawv nqaij los ntawm qhov tsis zoo ntawm UV hluav taws xob raug ntxiv rau kev txhim kho elasticity thiab firmness ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Nws tuaj yeem ncua qhov pom ntawm wrinkles thiab / lossis txo lawv qhov tob [243]. Cov extract ntawm P. tricornutum yog siv los ua ib qho khoom xyaw hauv ob qho tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus thiab kev rov ua kom zoo dua qub rau cov tawv nqaij, piv txwv li, Depollutine® thiab Megaassane® [244].

Extracts ntawm diatoms Thalassiosira sp. thiab Chaetoceros sp. thiab ntawm microalgae Chlorococcum sp.and Monodus sp., uas muaj fucoxanthin (19) thiab lwm yam carotenoid pigments [245–247] thiab ω-3PUFAs xws li DHA (21) thiab EPA (22) [248,249], yog npaj rau formulations los tiv thaiv cov plaub hau poob, txij li thaum lawv yuav modulate melanogenesis nyob rau hauv cov plaub hau thiab tawv nqaij, txhim kho thiab stimulating keratinocytedifferentiation, melanocyte proliferation, thiab kev loj hlob ntawm cov plaub hau thiab hauv paus plaub hau [250].

3.3.2. Marine Bacteria-Derived Compounds

Cov kab mob Marine muaj ntau nyob rau saum npoo ntawm hiav txwv tab sis qhov txo qis hauv qhov tob thiab feem ntau yog txuam nrog cov organic particles los yog zooplanktons raws li lawv cov substrate. Cov kab mob Marine yog cov tsim tawm ntawm cov metabolites thib ob rau lawv tus kheej tiv thaiv lwm yam kab mob xws li lawv. vam meej nyob rau hauv cov huab cua hnyav dej hiav txwv, thiab cov metabolites theem nrab no tuaj yeem ua haujlwm tau zoo ntawm bioactive compounds [223]. Ib tug loj tus naj npawb ntawm cov kab mob bioactive secondarymetabolite muaj cov nqi lag luam siab thiab tau pom lawv qhov chaw hauv kev lag luam tshuaj thiab tshuaj pleev ib ce [5]. Tseeb, ntau lub tebchaw muab tau los ntawm cov kab mob marine xws li alkaloids, peptides, proteins, lipids, mycosporines, thiab MAAs, glycosides, thiab isoprenoids pom cov duab tiv thaiv, tiv thaiv, tiv thaiv kab mob, antioxidant, thiab moisturizing dej [251].

Ntawm cov bioactive compounds nrog rau kev tiv thaiv kev tiv thaiv ntawm marine keeb kwm, polysaccharides (PSs) yog ib qho ntawm cov khoom siv kho kom zoo nkauj tshaj plaws [252], thiab cov kab mob yog cov kab mob zoo tshaj plaws rau kev tsim cov PSs siab dua [253]. Deepsane, ib qho exopolysaccharide muab tau los ntawm cov kab mob hauv hiav txwv Alteromonas macleodii, yog muag hauv lub npe Abyssine® [1] rau soothing thiab txo cov tawv nqaij rhiab tawm tsam tshuaj lom neeg, tshuab, thiab UVBaggression [254,255]. Kev sib xyaw ntawm PSs los ntawm Pseudoalteromonas sp., cais los ntawm Antarctic dej, yog koom nrog hauv kev tsim cov khoom siv tshuaj tiv thaiv. Qhov sib tov no, tau los ntawm fermentation, muaj peev xwm txhim kho cov synthesis ntawm collagen I, pab txhawb rau amelioration ntawm daim tawv nqaij structuralproperties [254]. Ib tug sib sib zog nqus dej hiav txwv hydrothermal vent marine kab mob, Vibrio diabolicus, tsim anexopolysaccharide HE 800 (52) (Daim duab 9) uas yog structurally analogous rau hyaluronic acid (53) (Daim duab 9), nrog tshwj xeeb functions uas txhawb collagen structuring [256].

Ob qhov carotenoids tsis tshua muaj kev cuam tshuam txog kev ua haujlwm antioxidant, saproxanthin (54) thiab myxol (55) (Daim duab 9) raug cais tawm los ntawm cov kab mob tshiab ntawm cov kab mob marine uas yog tsev neeg Flavobacteriaceae. Qhov sib ntxiv ntawm saproxanthin (54) lossis myxol (55) rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tuaj yeem pab txhawb cov kab mob lom neeg, txo qis permeability rau oxygen thiab txhim kho kev tiv thaiv oxidation. Interestingly, cov tshuaj tiv thaiv antioxidant ntawm saproxanthin (54) thiab myxol (55) yog ntau dua li ntawm zeaxanthin (51) (Daim duab 8) thiab -carotene (7) (Daim duab 2) [257]. Astaxanthin (33) (Daim duab 6) kuj yog tsim los ntawm qee cov kab mob marine-derived xws li Paracoccus sp. [258] thiab Agrobacterium sp. [259].

Methylene chloride, tsim los ntawm hom tshiab ntawm cov kab mob marine (Pseudomonas sp.), tuaj yeem txo cov pigmentation ntawm tib neeg melanocytes thiab kab lis kev cai ntawm daim tawv nqaij los ntawm inhibiting kev qhia ntawm tyrosinase [260]. Cov N-acyldehydrotyrosine analogues, thalassotalic acids A (56), B (57), thiab C (58) (Daim duab 9), cais los ntawm cov kab mob marine Thalassotalea sp., uas tau los ntawm bivalve, nthuav tawmanti-tyrosinasekev ua si. Interestingly, lubanti-tyrosinaseKev ua ntawm thalassotalic acid A (52) yog piv rau cov khoom siv tswj kev lag luam, arbutin (1) (Daim duab 1). Cov kws sau ntawv tau qhia tias muaj cov carboxylic acid thiab cov kab sib txuas aliphatic ua rau muaj kev nce ntxiv ntawm cov enzymatic inhibition nyob rau hauv cov chav kawm ntawm cov khoom sib txuas no [261]. Lwm cov kab mob-derived compound yog ectoine los yog 1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (59) (Daim duab 9), uas yog cov tshuaj tiv thaiv osmo-protectant tsim los ntawm ntau cov kab mob. hom nyob rau hauv teb rau osmotic kev nyuaj siab [262]. Ectoine (59) tau raug rho tawm thawj zaug los ntawm Ectothiorhodospira halochloris tab sis kuj tau raug cais tawm los ntawm lwm cov kab mob halophilic xws li - thiab -proteobacteria thiab qee cov Actinobacteridae nyob rau hauv siab ntsev concentrations [263].Cov tshuaj no txhim kho cov dej ntawm lub xov tooj ntawm tes los ntawm kev nce intermolecular spacing thiab boosts. Kev txav mus los ntawm lipid lub taub hau pab pawg hauv cov cell membrane [262], thiab nws tau txais txiaj ntsig zoo los ntawm tib neeg [264–266]. Yog li, ectoine (59) yog ib qho zoo moisturizer ntev uas tiv thaiv lub cev qhuav dej ntawm epidermis [262,267]. Nws kuj tseem txo cov tawv nqaij o thiab tam sim no raug tshawb xyuas rau kev kho mob ntawm tus mob atopic dermatitis [264].

Fatty acid esters yog cov khoom xyaw hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce raws li ntuj emollients thiab emulsifiers [79]. Txawm hais tias muaj ntau cov fatty acids esters tam sim no siv hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tau txais los ntawm cov nroj tsuag siab dua, qee cov kab mob kuj tuaj yeem tsim cov fatty acid esters tshwj xeeb. Yog li, ethyl oleate (60) (Daim duab 9), uas yog dav siv nyob rau hauv ntau yam tshuaj pleev ib ce raws li emollient thiab perfuming, kuj tau los ntawm actinomycetes Nocardiopsis dassonvillei, uas yog ib tug symbiont ntawm marine daim txhuam cev Dendrilla nigra.Cov compound no kuj tso tawm anti-inflammatory. kev ua si [268]. Yog li ntawd, ethyl oleate (60) tuaj yeem yog cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce uas muaj peev xwm ua tau zoo rau cov khoom siv tawv nqaij uas tuaj yeem tsim tau rau hauv txoj kev ruaj khov.Muaj ntau yam marine sponge-derived Actinomycetes sp. thiab Streptomyces sp. kuj tseem tau tshawb nrhiav qhov chaw txuas ntxiv ntawm carotenoids rau cov khoom siv biotechnological xws li zaub mov- thiab cov xim pleev xim-gradenatural pigments [269,270].

3.3.3. Marine Fungi-Derived Compounds

Ntau cov fungi marine-derived tsim cov metabolites theem nrab nrog lub peev xwm cosmeceutical.Piv txwv li, Phaeotheca triangular, Trimmatostroma salinum, Hortaea werneckii, Aureobasidium pullulans, thiab Cryptococcus liquefaciens paub tias tsim MAAs [271]. Cov benzodiazepine alkaloids, circumdatinsI (61), C (62), thiab G (63) (Daim duab 10) raug cais tawm ntawm kab lis kev cai ntawm marine sponge-associated fungusExophiala sp. (Tsev neeg: Herpotrichiellaceae) tso tawm ntau lub zog tiv thaiv UVA ntau dua li kev tswj hwm oxybenzone (64) (Daim duab 10), uas tam sim no siv hauv cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub [272].Myrothenone A (65) thiab 6-n-pentyl{{ 13}}pyrone (66) (Daim duab 10), cais tawm ntawm kab lis kev cai ntawm algicolousfungus Myrothecium sp. uas tau txais los ntawm marine ntsuab alga Enteromorpha compressa, nthuav tawm muaj zoganti-tyrosinasekev ua haujlwm (IC{{0}}}.6 thiab 0.8 µM, feem) dua kojic acid (3, IC50=7.7µM) [273].Cov kab lis kev cai ntawm cov kab mob fungus Botrytis sp., cais los ntawm qhov saum npoo ntawm cov seaweed liab Hyalosiphonia caespitosa, rooj tog 6-[(E)-hept-1-enyl]- -pyrone (67) (Daim duab 10), uas kuj pom muaj zog duaanti-tyrosinasekev ua haujlwm tshaj kojic acid (3) [274]. Kab lis kev cai ntawm marine sediment-derived Trichoderma viridae H1-7 tsim homothallin II (68) (Daim duab 10), uas yog ib qho kev sib tw inhibitor ntawm nceb tyrosinase.Cov tebchaw no tshwm sim los inhibit cov enzyme los ntawm kev khi rau ib qho chaw tooj liab. ntawm cov enzyme [275].Txawm hais tias tsuas yog ob peb marine fungal metabolites tau ua lawv txoj kev mus rau lub ntiaj teb cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, patent ntawm askin-whitening agent, chrysophanol (69) (Daim duab 10), muab rho tawm los ntawm algicolous fungus Microsporum sp.(MFS. -YL), tau foob hauv Tebchaws Meskas (US patent 20140056834A1) [10]. Los ntawm kev ntxiv cov abiotic stressor, CuCl2, mus rau kab lis kev cai ntawm marine-derived fungus Pestalotiopsis sp. Z233, cais tawm los ntawm marine alga Sargassumhorneri, ob lub yav dhau los tsis tau tshaj tawm sesquiterpenes, 1, 5, 6, 14-tetraacetoxy-9 -benzoyloxy- 7 H-eudesman-2 , {{25} }diol (70) thiab 4 , 5 -diacetoxy-9 -benzoyloxy-7 H-eudesman-1 , 2 , 11, 14-tetraol(71) tau txais ( Daim duab 10). Cov tshuaj 70 thiab 71 tau nthuav tawm cov haujlwm inhibitory tiv thaiv cov mushroomtyrosinase nrog IC50 qhov tseem ceeb ntawm 14.8 µM thiab 22.3 µM, uas yog piv rau kojic acid (3, IC50=21.2 µM) [276]. Ib kab lis kev cai broth ntawm marine fungus Alternaria sp., cais tawm ntawm qhov chaw ntawm amarine ntsuab alga Ulva pertusa, tsim ob kojic acid derivatives, piv txwv li, kojic acid dimethyl ether (72) thiab kojic acid monomethyl ether (73), ua ke nrog phomaligol A. (74) (Daim duab 10); Txawm li cas los xij, tsuas yog kojicacid tso tawmanti-tyrosinasekev ua si [277].

Squalene (75) (Daim duab 10), uas yog Ameslikas tau los ntawm shark siab roj, kuj tuaj yeem tau los ntawm cov kab mob xws li Protista Thraustochytriales. Raws li ib qho lipid uas tsim los ntawm cov qog sebaceous, squalene (75) plays lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv cov tawv nqaij pleev xim thiab cov qauv ntawm tes thiab kev tiv thaiv. Yog li, squalene (75) yog siv hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce kom cov tawv nqaij moisturized. Moisturizing creamscontaining squalene (75) yog non-toxic, non-irritating, thiab non-sensitizing thaum muab antistatic thiab emollient zog [278]. Ntawm qhov tod tes, fatty acids paub tsis tau tsuas yog rau lawv siv raws li kev noj haus, tab sis kuj rau lawv broad-spectrum.cosmeceuticalsvim lawv lub luag haujlwm hauv cov ntaub so ntswg kho thiab kev noj qab haus huv ntawm daim tawv nqaij los ntawm kev txhawb nqa ntawm collagen ntau lawm nrog rau cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob thiab qhov txhab kho mob [279]. Thraustochytrids, los yog fungi-zoo li protists, tau tshawb nrhiav rau kev tsim khoom ntawm PUFAs xws li DHA (21), EPA (22) (Daim duab 4), thiab docosapentaenoic (DPA) (76) (Daim duab 10) vim lawv cov khoom ntau lawm ib chav tsev ntawm biomass [280,281]. Tshwj xeeb, cov hom tsiaj uas muaj nyob rau hauv Schizochytrium, Aurantiochytrium, thiab Ulkenia, los ntawm Thraustochytriaceaefamily, yog cov neeg tsim khoom tseem ceeb ntawm DHA (21) [282]. DHA-nplua nuj roj los ntawm Thraustochytrids yog tam sim no nyob rau hauv lub lag luam raws li nutraceuticals; Txawm li cas los xij, lawv kuj muaj peev xwm zoo li tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab nutricosmetic [283]. Thraustochytrids xws li Thraustochytriidae sp. ONC-T18, CHN-1, Ulkenia sp.AS4-A1 thiab Aurantiochytrium sp. KH105) kuj tsim cov carotenoids, suav nrog -carotene (7) (Daim duab 2), astaxanthin (33) (Daim duab 6), canthaxanthin (49), thiab zeaxanthin (51) (Daim duab 8), phoenicoxanthin (77), thiab echinenone (78). ) (Daim duab 10), uas tuaj yeem siv los ua cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob thiab cov tshuaj tua kab mob antioxidant indifferent cosmetic formulations [283].

Ib qho N-methylated linear octapeptide RHM1 (79) (Daim duab 10), cais tawm los ntawm kab lis kev cai ntawm marine-derived Acremonium sp., uas tau txais los ntawm ib qho dej hiav txwv tsis muaj npe los ntawm Papua New Guinea nthuav tawm cov tshuaj tua kab mob tiv thaiv S. epidermidis, uas yog ib qho Tus neeg sawv cev ntawm tus kab mob [105]. Lwm chav kawm ntawm fungal metabolites nrog ntau yam kev ua ub no lom neeg yog meroterpenoids. Tsis ntev los no, Zhang li al. [284], hauv lawv txoj kev tshawb nrhiav bioactive theem nrab metabolites los ntawm kab lis kev cai ntawm marine sponge-associated fungus Penicillium brasilianum WZXY-m122-9, tau cais cov series ofmeroterpenoids, uas lawv tau hu ua brasilianoids A-F (80-85) (Daim duab 10). Qhov zoo siab, tsuas yog 80 tau pom qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev nthuav qhia ntawm filaggrin, uas yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov moisturizingfactor uas tswj lub peev xwm los tswj cov tawv nqaij noo noo barrier [285], thiab ntawm caspase-14, uas yog lub luag hauj lwm rau kev tswj TEWL thiab rhiab heev rau UVB puas [286]. Yog li, qhov sib xyaw no yog thawj qhov piv txwv ntawm cov khoom siv ntuj tsim uas tuaj yeem siv los txhawb kev tiv thaiv UVB-inducedcell puas tsuaj, qhia tias nws tuaj yeem muaj peev xwm ua kom zoo nkauj rau tawv nqaij thiab kho cov kab mob dermatological [284].

3.3.4. Yeasts-Derived Compound

Ntau cov genera ntawm cov poov xab, uas yog Rhodotorula, Phaffia, thiab Xanthophyllomyces paub txog cov khoom tsim astaxanthin (33) (Daim duab 6) [11]. Txawm hais tias cov poov xab ua rau qis qis ntawm astaxanthin (33) thaum piv rau lwm yam kab mob xws li algae, lawv muaj ntau yam zoo dua lwm yam kab mob, vim tias lawv muaj kev loj hlob ntau dua, kev cog qoob loo yooj yim dua, thiab tuaj yeem hloov kho genetic orby noob hom phiaj uncovering kom nce carotenoid ntau lawm. nqi [287–289].

4. Cov kev xav yav tom ntej thiab cov lus xaus

Raws li cov me nyuam-boomer tiam tab tom nkag mus rau lawv cov hnub nyoog siab, lub siab xav saib hluas thiab noj qab nyob zoo tau dhau los ua qhov tseem ceeb hauv ntiaj teb. Kev cuam tshuam ntawm kev tshaj xov xwm los qhia rau cov pej xeem thiab kev nthuav tawm zoo ntawm kev tshawb fawb tshawb fawb tau ua rau muaj kev paub txog kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev siv ntau yam tshuaj hauv tshuaj thiab tshuaj pleev ib ce nrog rau cov txiaj ntsig kev noj qab haus huv ntawm cov khoom sib txuas tau los ntawm naturalresources. Yog li, lub xyoo txhiab xyoo no yog cim los ntawm cov txheej txheem ib puag ncig thiab kev siv cov khoom ntuj. Rau lwm txoj hauv kev rau "ntsuab thev naus laus zis", marine lossis "blue biotechnology" tau txais nws cov nyom los ntawm kev muab ntau yam ntawm cov khoom ntuj tsim uas tsis tuaj yeem pom nyob rau hauv ib puag ncig hauv av thiab nrog cov khoom siv tshuaj lom neeg thiab tshuaj tsis tau pom dua. Txawm hais tias cov kws kho mob tau ua tus pioneer hauv kev siv cov khoom muaj nqis los ntawm dej hiav txwv, cov tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab nutraceutical sectorshave tam sim no tau them nyiaj ntau dua rau cov cheeb tsam hauv hiav txwv.

Txawm hais tias qee cov khoom ntawm lub hauv paus chiv keeb marine twb tau tshwm sim nyob rau hauv kev ua lag luam, tus naj npawb ntawm cov khoom no tseem ceeb heev thaum piv rau qhov loj ntawm hiav txwv thiab yav tom ntej discoveries uas nyob tom ntej. Piv txwv li, kom txog rau thaum 2012, tsuas yog peb hom kev sib txuas ntawm marine algae tau siv los ua lag luam, piv txwv li, alginates, agar, thiab carrageenan. Qhov no qhia tau hais tias tseem muaj ntau cov marine tebchaw, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov molecules me me, uas tuaj yeem siv los uacosmeceuticalsthiab nutricosmetics. Txawm li cas los xij, kev siv zog ntau dua rau kev sib cais thiab kev ua tus yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom lag luam kom pom cov tshuaj pharmacophores, kev hloov pauv molecular, kev ntsuam xyuas ntawm lawv cov khoom siv tshuaj thiab kev nyab xeeb, kev txhim kho cov khoom zoo, thiab qhov tseem ceeb tshaj, kev nqis peev ntau hauv R & D yog ntau xav tau. Nws yog qhov nthuav kom hais ntxiv tias cov peev txheej hauv hiav txwv no tseem siv tsis zoo vim qee qhov kev txwv tsis pub muaj. Ua ntej thiab qhov tseem ceeb, qhov ntau ntawm cov tebchaw cais tawm los ntawm cov khoom siv roj ntsha, uas ib txwm sau los ntawm cov dej hiav txwv ib puag ncig, yog qhov tsawg heev thiab yog li ua rau nyuaj rau bioassays ntxiv thiab kev loj hlob. Qhov thib ob, qhov kev hloov pauv ntawm lawv cov khoom yog cuam tshuam los ntawm ib puag ncig kev hloov pauv uas cov kab mob marine raug nthuav tawm. Yog li, muaj qhov xav tau los nrhiav txoj hauv kev ruaj khov xws li kev ua liaj ua teb ntawm cov kab mob hauv hiav txwv nrog cov xwm txheej zoo kom sau cov khoom noj bioactive metabolites los siv ua cov khoom xyaw nquag, excipients, thiab additives. Hauv qhov no, microbial biotechnology tuaj yeem suav hais tias yog txoj hauv kev cog lus kom tau txais cov khoom zoo ntawm cov khoom muaj txiaj ntsig zoo licosmeceuticalsthiab nutricosmetics.

cistanche muaj daim tawv nqaij ua haujlwm