Trends nyob rau hauv Kev Siv Botanicals nyob rau hauv Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Thov hu rauoscar.xiao@wecistanche.comyog xav paub ntxiv

Abstract:Cov khoom xyaw botanical tau siv ntau txhiab xyoo hauv kev tu tawv nqaij rau lawv txoj kev yooj yim nrog rau kev sib txawv thiab kev nplua nuj ntawm cov tebchaw nrog kev ua haujlwm lom neeg. Ntawm cov no, polyphenols, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog flavonoids, tau nce qhov tseem ceeb vim lawv cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob antioxidant thiab tiv thaiv kab mob. Kev tshuaj xyuas tau rov ua dua hauv 2018 rau cov khoom tshiab thiab kho dua tshiab. Cov pov thawj tshawb fawb rau lawv daim ntawv thov ua cov khoom xyaw nquag hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tiv thaiv kev laus thiab lawv cov ntsiab lus flavonoid kuj tau muab tso ua ke los ntawm kev tshawb fawb hauv online scientific databases. Zuag qhia tag nrho, nyob rau hauv 2018, muaj ib qho kev nce ntxiv ntawm kev siv botanical npaj nyob rau hauv anti-aging tshuaj pleev ib ce. Txawm li cas los xij, peb hom botanical saum toj kawg nkaus hauv ob lub xyoos yog Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, thiab Glycine soja, uas zoo ib yam nrog ntau dua ntawm cov pov thawj tshawb fawb txhawb nqa lawv cov txiaj ntsig. Hais txog kev ua haujlwm ntawm kev npaj botanical, muaj kev nyiam meej rau DNA-tiv thaiv cov khoom xyaw.bioflavonoidsFlavonoids ntau tshaj plaws yog flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, thiab anthocyanins. Txoj kev tshawb no tau muab cov ntsiab lus tshiab ntawm kev ua lag luam tiam sis hais txog kev siv botanicals hauv cov khoom siv los tiv thaiv kev laus thiab tau sau tseg txog lub xeev ntawm kev kos duab ntawm cov pov thawj scientific rau cov nroj tsuag siv ntau tshaj plaws.

Ntsiab lus:botanical kev npaj; anti-aging; tshuaj pleev ib ce; kev ua lag luam

1. Taw qhia

Tau ntau txhiab xyoo, ib txwm muaj, cov khoom xyaw muab tau los ua raw khoom rau cov khoom tu tawv nqaij, yog muab los ntawm cov ntxhia, tsiaj txhu, lossis cov zaub mov [1,2].

Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 21st, kev siv cov khoom xyaw uas tau txais los ntawm cov khoom xyaw tseem yog ib qho kev nthuav dav, uas tej zaum yog vim muaj kev cuam tshuam hauv internet thiab kev tshaj xov xwm. Los ntawm 2015 txog 2019, lub ntiaj teb "cov tshuaj pleev ib ce" kev lag luam tau nthuav dav, nrog 10-11 feem pua ​​​​ntawm kev loj hlob txhua xyoo. Lub khw no tseem sawv cev rau lub sijhawm zoo rau kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce, vim tias ntau tus neeg siv khoom txaus siab them nyiaj ntau dua rau cov khoom no [3.4].

Thov nias ntawm no kom paub ntxiv

Xyoo 2011, kwv yees li ib feem peb ntawm cov khoom xyaw uas tau teev tseg los ntawm International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system ntawm Personal Care Products Council tau muab cais ua "botanical extracts". Cov khoom xyaw botanical tej zaum yuav tshwm sim los ntawm kev sib txawv ntawm cov txheej txheem ntawm tib cov khoom cog, suav nrog cov nroj tsuag rho tawm, cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo, tinctures, waxes, zaub roj, lipids, tsob nroj carbohydrates, cov roj yam tseem ceeb, nrog rau cov nroj tsuag purified, xws li cov vitamins, antioxidants, thiab lwm yam tshuaj nrog kev paub txog kev ua haujlwm lom neeg [5]. Lub npe INCI siv lub Latin binomial qhia txog ib feem ntawm cov nroj tsuag (xws li, hauv paus, nplooj), thiab cov khoom rho tawm (xws li, extract, roj, kua txiv). Nws yog noteworthy tias tsis yog tag nrho cov tsis yog ib txwm qhia nyob rau hauv daim ntawv lo ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce [6].

Cistanche tuaj yeem tiv thaiv kev laus

Ntawm tag nrho cov khoom uas tuaj yeem pom nyob rau hauv kev npaj botanical rau kev siv tshuaj pleev ib ce, polyphenols tau nce qhov tseem ceeb vim muaj ntau yam ntawm kev ua haujlwm lom neeg. Polyphenols tau pom tias muab cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob antioxidant thiab tiv thaiv kev ua haujlwm afer tshuaj pleev ib ce, nrog rau kev muaj peev xwm los cuam tshuam cov noob qhia thiab kev ua ntawm daim tawv nqaij enzymes, xws li hyaluronidase, matrix metalloproteinase (MP) collagenase, thiab serine protease elastase [7].

Polyphenols yog ib pawg loj ntawm ntuj, hluavtaws, thiab semi-synthetic compounds, nrog tsawg kawg yog ib lub nplhaib phenolic. Polyphenols raug cais nyob rau hauv ib co chav kawm ntawv thiab ntau subclasses nyob ntawm seb muaj pes tsawg tus ntawm aromatic rings, uas yog phenolic acids, xws li-ing hydroxybenzoic thiab cinnamic acids, flavonoids, thiab stilbenes, nrog rau lwm tus [8] Flavonoids yog pawg loj ntawm cov tsis tshua muaj molecular phenolic tebchaw. thiab muaj cov qauv dav dav ntawm 15- cov pob txha pob txha, uas muaj ob lub nplhaib phenyl (A thiab B) thiab lub nplhaib heterocyclic (C), uas muaj cov tsev neeg loj uas suav nrog flavanols, flavonols, flavones, anthocyanidins, thiab isoflavones. , ntawm lwm tus [9].

Ua ke mus rau ntu "natural", tag nrho cov khoom lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce tau loj hlob nrog ntu "tiv thaiv kev laus" tuav ib feem ntawm ntau dua 39.6 feem pua ​​​​hauv 2015 [10]. Kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij yog qhov tshwm sim los ntawm qhov tshwm sim los ntawm qhov tshwm sim ntawm lub xov tooj ntawm lub sijhawm kev laus, tab sis nws kuj yog exacerbated nrog rau ntau yam ib puag ncig hu ua daim tawv nqaij laus exposome. Cov no suav nrog hluav taws xob (ultraviolet, pom, thiab infrared), huab cua paug, haus luam yeeb, noj zaub mov tsis zoo, nrog rau kev pw tsaug zog, kev ntxhov siab, lossis kev siv tshuaj pleev ib ce tsis txaus [11]. Kev pom cov teeb pom kev zoo xws li lub hnub thiab cov teeb pom kev zoo zoo li muaj feem cuam tshuam, ua rau muaj qhov tshwm sim hu ua photoaging (Table 1) [12]. Lub teeb xiav los ntawm lub hnub thiab cov khoom siv hluav taws xob, tseem hu ua lub zog siab pom lub teeb, tab tom npaj ua ib qho tseem ceeb rau kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog hais txog pigmentation [1]. Qhov ua rau thiab qhov tshwm sim cuam tshuam nrog cov tawv nqaij thiab cov duab thaij duab tau muab sau tseg hauv Table1.

Hauv xyoo 2010, ib txoj kev tshawb fawb tau soj ntsuam 10 cov khoom xyaw botanical saum toj kawg nkaus hauv cov khw muag tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus hauv Tebchaws Meskas. Peb tsis paub txog kev ua haujlwm zoo sib xws hais txog kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce nyob sab Europe [13].

Ntawm no, qhov kev tshawb fawb no qhia txog hom kab mob botanical uas siv ntau tshaj plaws hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus hauv xyoo 2011 thiab 2018. Kev ntsuam xyuas tseem ceeb ntawm lawv cov muaj pes tsawg leeg thiab cov pov thawj kev tshawb fawb tam sim no uas txhawb nqa lawv cov kev tiv thaiv kev laus kuj tau ua.

2. Cov txiaj ntsig thiab kev sib tham

2.1. Botanical Preparations Prevalence thiab ntau yam

Hauv 2011, 63.8 feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov khoom siv los tiv thaiv kev laus muaj cov tshuaj botanical npaj thaum xyoo 2018, 73.8 feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov khoom muaj cov khoom xyaw. Qhov no sib haum mus rau 16 feem pua ​​​​nce hauv lub sijhawm xya xyoo, uas zoo ib yam nrog kev lag luam loj hlob [3].

Tus naj npawb ntawm cov tsiaj botanical siv los tiv thaiv kev laus cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce ib xyoos yog me ntsis siab dua hauv 2011, nrog rau 106 hom sib txawv piv rau 96 xyoo 2018. Txawm li cas los xij, 177 cov khoom tau soj ntsuam hauv 2011 piv nrog 103 cov khoom hauv 2018, uas tuaj yeem cuam tshuam qhov kev tshawb pom no. .

2.2.Top Botanical Hom

Kaum hom botanical uas muaj ntau dua tau nthuav tawm hauv daim duab 1.

Txawm li cas los xij, muaj ntau yam kev npaj sib txawv rau qee hom botanical, sib xws rau kev rho tawm ntawm qhov sib txawv ntawm cov nroj tsuag thiab ntau txoj kev rho tawm. Ntxiv nrog rau qhov sib txawv ntawm cov nroj tsuag keeb kwm, cov kev sib txawv no ib leeg tuaj yeem ua rau muaj ntau yam khoom xyaw.muab cistancheTsis tas li ntawd, qee zaum, cov ntaub ntawv pom nyob rau hauv cov khoom'Cov npe muaj pes tsawg leeg tsis tiav, thiab nws tsis tso cai rau kev txheeb xyuas qhov twg ntawm cov nroj tsuag lossis cov txheej txheem extraction tau siv. Cov ntaub ntawv nthuav tawm hauv daim ntawv lo rau cov khoom kom zoo nkauj tau muab tso ua ke txog txhua qhov kev npaj botanical thiab tom qab ntawd muab faib raws li hom botanical (Table 2).

Nws tau pom tias cuaj ntawm kaum feem ntau siv botanical hom tshwm sim nyob rau hauv 2011 thiab 2018 (Daim duab 1), uas qhia tias cov no ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev ua tau zoo ntawm cov khoom kom zoo nkauj. Nws kuj tseem tsim nyog hais tias ib sab ntawm Glycyrhiza glabra, muaj kev nce ntxiv hauv kev siv 10 hom nroj tsuag saum toj kawg nkaus hauv 2018 piv rau 2011. Qhov kev tshawb pom no zoo ib yam nrog peb cov txiaj ntsig txog kev npaj botanical prevalence. Hauv qab no, cov pov thawj scientific txhawb nqa kev tiv thaiv kev laus ntawm txhua hom tsiaj botanical los ntawm sab saum toj 10 tau tshaj tawm. Cov polyphenol muaj pes tsawg leeg los ntawm tag nrho cov kev npaj botanical yog sau tseg nyob rau hauv Table 3. 2.2.1.Vitis vinifera

Nyob rau hauv 2011, Vitis oinifera (vine) yog cov feem ntau siv botanical hom, tig mus rau qhov thib peb nyob rau hauv 2018. Los ntawm tag nrho cov botanicals soj ntsuam nyob rau hauv txoj kev tshawb no, nws yog ib tug nthuav ntau yam loj tshaj plaws ntawm kev npaj.

Grape thiab liab cawu cub yog cov khoom noj khoom haus loj ntawm stilbenes ob qho tib si hauv cov ntaub so ntswg uas tsis tuaj yeem noj tau thiab tsis noj [22].

"Palmitoyl grapevine tua extract" yog cov feem ntau siv txiv hmab txiv ntoo npaj nyob rau hauv ob lub xyoos, txawm hais tias nws siv tau txo los ntawm 2011 mus rau 2018. Cov muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm no palmitoyl extract yog tsis paub. Txawm li cas los xij, tom qab vine stems, tua yog ib feem ntawm cov nroj tsuag uas muaj ntau dua resveratrol concentration [23].cistanchCis-thiab trans-resveratrol yog ntau polyphenols nyob rau hauv cov huab cua qhov chaw ntawm cov nroj tsuag. Lawv muab cov tshuaj tiv thaiv antioxidant thiab txo qis kev qhia thiab kev ua haujlwm ntawm ROS tsim cov enzymes thaum nce kev nthuav qhia ntawm cov enzymes antioxidant. Resveratrol tau qhia los tswj metalloproteinase-1 (MP-1)-mediated UVB. induced tawv nqaij laus, apoptosis-induced tawv nqaij laus, thiab o-mediated teeb meem hu ua "inflamaging" nyob rau hauv dermal fibroblasts [24]. Cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm resveratrol rau SKH-1 cov nas tsis muaj plaub hau ua ntej UVB raug kuj ua rau muaj kev cuam tshuam tseem ceeb ntawm daim tawv nqaij edema, o, thiab lipid peroxidation [25]. Grapevine tua extracts kuj paub tias muaj ntau yam stilbenoids, xws li trans-resveratrol, ampelopsin A, e-viniferin, r-viniferin, w-viniferin, pallidol, hopheaphenol, piceatanrol, isohopeaphenol, thiab r2-viniferin [2] ]. Trans-e-Viniferin, ib qho resveratrol oligomer, tau pom tias muab cov nyhuv tyrosinase inhibition ntau dua thaum piv nrog resveratrol, arbutin, kojic, thiab ascorbic acids [27. Ib qho kev tshawb fawb hauv vitro tau txiav txim siab tias cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo extract tau tshwm sim kom muaj zog antioxidant ntau dua li cov vitamin Cor vitamin E ntawm keratinocytes tom qab H2O2 raug [28]. Ib qho kev ntsuam xyuas hauv vivo tau pom tias plaub lub lis piam ob zaug-ib hnub applicaticon ntawm 1 feem pua ​​​​Vitis vinifera tua extract (tseem hu ua sarmentine) cov ntshav tau muab qhov tsis pom zoo hauv daim tawv nqaij firmness, radiance, kev ntxhib los mos, kab zoo, thiab wrinkles [29].

Los ntawm 2011 txog 2018, kev siv "Vitis vinifera (grape) noob roj" txo qis, thaum "Palmitoyl grape noob extract" thiab "Vitis vinifera noob extract" tsuas yog siv rau xyoo tom qab (Table 2) . Grape noob roj muaj lub ntsiab ly linoleic acid nyob rau hauv nws fatty acid muaj pes tsawg leeg, uas muaj 66.0 feem pua ​​​​rau 75.3 feem pua ​​​​ntawm tag nrho cov fatty acid. Nws kuj tseem muaj cov ntsiab lus vitamin E ntau dua li cov taum pauv thiab cov roj txiv roj, uas ua ke nrog cov phenolic tebchaw xws li catechins, epicatechins (flavan-3-ols), thiab procyanidin B1 (proanthocyanidin) flavonoids carotenoids, phenolic acids, thiab stilbenes muab ib qho khoom noj khoom haus. antioxidant kev ua haujlwm uas tej zaum yuav pab tau hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus. Grape noob roj yog siv los ua ib qho emollient hauv cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce Nws kuj tau pom tias muab cov txiaj ntsig ntxiv rau daim tawv nqaij xws li cov tshuaj tua kab mob thiab kev kho qhov txhab hauv cov qauv nas [30]. Txawm li cas los xij, tseem tsis muaj pov thawj tshawb fawb txog qhov ntawd. Grape noob extracts tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nplua nuj nyob rau hauv proantho-cyanidins, feem ntau B hom procyanidins tab sis kuj monomers thiab oligomers, uas tau pom tias muaj zog antioxidants thiab dawb radical scavengers, ua tau zoo dua li vitamin Cor vitamin E. Grape noob extracts kuj muaj catechin. , epicatechin, thiab epicatechin gallate [13,31]. Cov kev npaj no tau qhia txog kev ua haujlwm ntawm tyrosinase-inhibiting, ua tau zoo hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tiv thaiv kev laus [32]. Kev tshawb fawb soj ntsuam tau soj ntsuam cov teebmeem hauv tib neeg lub ntsej muag ntawm daim tawv nqaij ntawm W / O cream uas muaj Muscat Hamburg dub grape noob extract. Qhov kev tshawb nrhiav ib leeg-dig muag randomized placebo-tswj tau pom qhov tshwm sim tseem ceeb rau daim tawv nqaij dawb, moisturizing, ancA muaj peev xwm tiv thaiv kev laus [33]. Cov pov thawj ntau dua los ntawm cov noob rho tawm piv rau cov roj tuaj yeem ua pov thawj tias lawv siv ntau dua [25,34]. Qhov tseeb, "Vitis vinifera noob extract" tau raug npaj los ua cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab tshuaj tiv thaiv kev ua qias tuaj [13,35]. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov tseeb muaj pes tsawg leeg los ntawm "Palmitoyl grape noob extract" tseem tsis paub.

"Vitis oinifera (grape) txiv hmab txiv ntoo extract" kuj tau siv nyob rau hauv 2011, tab sis nws tsis tau pom nyob rau hauv 2018. Grape berries muaj ntau yam antioxidants, xws li cov vitamins C, E, carotenoids, thiab polyphenols [36]. Qhov tseeb, lawv raug suav hais tias yog ib qho ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm bioactive polyphenols xws li anthocyanins, flavonols, flavan-3-ols, tannins, hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives, thiab stilbenes, xws li resveratrol [28,37]. Loj npaum li cas ntawm cov tebchaw no muaj nyob rau hauv daim tawv nqaij txiv hmab txiv ntoo (tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nyob rau hauv cov tawv nqaij liab), noob, thiab, rau ib tug tsawg npaum li cas, pulp [37]. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) paub zoo txog nws cov kev tiv thaiv kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij, txhim kho nws cov kev tiv thaiv rau UV raug, txo qis hyperpigmentation, txo cov qhab nia wrinkle, thiab txhim kho daim tawv nqaij [38,39]. Vitamin E (tocopherol) kuj yog siv los ua ib qho tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus vim nws muaj peev xwm txo erythema los ntawm UV raug, roughness, sunburn, wrinkling, thiab daim tawv nqaij pigmentation [15].Melatonin kuj pom nyob rau hauv cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij ntawm Italian thiab Fabkis txiv hmab.cistanche AustraliaQhov no neurohormone yog ib tug biogenic indolamine uas ua lub luag hauj lwm tseem ceeb nyob rau hauv cov kev cai ntawm circadian thiab raws caij nyoog rhythms, tab sis nws kuj yog ib tug proven dawb radical scavenger thiab broad-spectrum antioxidant. Contrary to vitamin C, E, los yog glutathione, uas tuaj yeem rov tsim dua los ntawm cov tshuaj tiv thaiv redox thiab tuaj yeem txhawb kev tsim ntawm lwm hom oxidized, melatonin zoo li cuam tshuam nrog cov dawb radicals los ntawm kev sib txuas ntxiv, yog li ua rau cov khoom ruaj khov uas yog antioxidants lawv tus kheej [40] . Kev tshawb fawb randomized, placebo-tswj, ob-dig muag txoj kev tshawb fawb pom tau hais tias cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm melatonin muab kev tiv thaiv tiv thaiv erythema vim los ntawm UV hluav taws xob los ntawm ntuj tshav ntuj [41]. Qhov kev kho mob ua tau zoo ntawm cov tshuaj pleev xim melatonin ua cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus tseem tsis tau paub. Txawm li cas los xij, ib txoj kev tshawb fawb sib piv ob hnub thiab hmo ntuj formulations uas muaj melatonin nrog ib tug tsis kho kev tswj sab pom kev txhim kho ntawm daim tawv nqaij hydration thiab daim tawv nqaij tonicity, nrog ib tug kho mob kev txhim kho nyob rau hauv lub nam ntawm wrinkles, vim hais tias cov instrumental tau tsis tseem ceeb piv nrog lub hauv paus thiab. tswj sab [42]. Txawm hais tias cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo tuaj yeem muaj cov txiaj ntsig zoo, kev tshawb fawb pom tias nws cov txiaj ntsig zoo rau kev tawm tsam ntawm daim tawv nqaij laus tsis pom. Qhov tsis muaj pov thawj no tuaj yeem piav qhia nws qhov txo qis hauv cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce. 2.2.2.Butyrospermum parkii

Butyrospermum parkii (shea, los yog Vitellaria paradoxa) kev siv tau nce los ntawm 2011 txog 2018, noj thawj qhov chaw raws li kev siv botanical tshaj plaws (Daim duab 1). Shea feem ntau yog siv rau nws cov butter, uas muaj cov roj uas tau muab rho tawm los ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo loj.

Nws muaj 90 feem pua ​​​​triglycerides (saponifiable feem) thiab 10 feem pua ​​​​tsis-triglycerides (un-saponifiable feem). Lub ntsiab fatty acids pom nyob rau hauv shea yog stearic, oleic, palmitic, linoleic, thiab arachidic acid, uas muab moisturizing thiab barrier tiv thaiv kev ua [4]. Cov unsaponifiable muaj xws li antioxidants (roj soluble tocopherols), triterpenes (xws li, butyrosper-mol), phenols, sterols, karate, allantoin, thiab polyphenols (feem ntau yog catechin), uas ua ke tau pom tias muab UV-B absorbing zog [45, 46] ib. Shea butter tau pom tias yuav txhawb cov collagen ntau lawm thaum inactivating proteases xws li metalloprotease (xws li, collagenase) thiab serine protease (xws li, elastase) [45]. Ob qhov kev tshawb fawb soj ntsuam tau pom tias shea butter tuaj yeem txo ntau yam cim ntawm kev laus thiab tiv thaiv kev laus yees duab [47].

Ib cag ntawm "Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter", uas nws siv yuav luag peb zaug hauv 2018 ib yam khoom uas muaj "Butyrospermum parkii (shea) Butter Extract" kuj pom nyob rau hauv 2018, uas muaj ntau dua bioactive feem ntawm shea butter triterpene esters [48]. Cov pov thawj hais txog qhov zoo ntawm shea butter rau cov tawv nqaij laus tuaj yeem ua pov thawj qhov kev siv ntau ntxiv hauv cov khoom siv los tiv thaiv kev laus los ntawm 2011 txog 2018 nrog rau kev txhim kho ntawm kev npaj sib txawv.

2.2.3.Glycine soja

Hauv xyoo 2018, Glycine soja (soy) yog qhov thib ob siv ntau tshaj plaws botanical, nrog ntau qhov chaw ntawm cov nroj tsuag tau siv rau hauv cov khoom kom zoo nkauj (Daim duab 1). Soy (Glycine max L.) belongs rau tsev neeg Fabaceae pea, thiab nws yog nyob rau sab hnub tuaj Asia. Nws tau raug siv hauv Suav tsoos, thiab nws tau pib cog hauv Tebchaws Meskas thaum Tsov Rog Ntiaj Teb Ⅱ[49].

"Glycine soya (soybean) roj" muab cov roj moisturizing thiab lubricating rau cov khoom tu tawv nqaij. Nws muaj pes tsawg leeg muaj triglycerides ntawm linoleic (54 feem pua), oleic (24 feem pua), thiab linolenic (7 feem pua), thiab saturated fatty acids [50].Soybean roj muaj ib tug 6-fold nce nyob rau hauv anti-aging khoom los ntawm Xyoo 2011 txog 2018, txawm tias tsis muaj kev tshawb fawb hauv cov ntaub ntawv tshawb fawb pom tau tias muaj kev tiv thaiv kev laus.

Protein yog cov ntsiab lus tseem ceeb ntawm cov taum pauv (30 txog 50 g / 100 g), nrog -conglycinin (7S) thiab glycinin (11S) sawv cev 65 feem pua ​​​​rau 80 feem pua ​​​​ntawm tag nrho cov protein ntau. Tag nrho cov taum pauv muaj li ntawm 7 mus rau 9 feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov protease inhibitors, feem ntau yog STI (Kunitz-type trypsin inhibitor) thiab taum pauv trypsin BBI (Bowman-Birk protease inhibitor) [51].cov txiaj ntsig cistancheTsis yog-denatured soybean npaj, muaj STI thiab BBI, ua rau cov tawv nqaij lightening pom ob qho tib si hauv vitro thiab hauv vivo los ntawm kev txo cov melanosomes phagocytosis yog li tiv thaiv melanin hloov ntawm keratinocytes [51,52].

Soybean kab mob yog cov noob feem uas muaj cov ntsiab lus ntau dua ntawm cov tshuaj tua kab mob antioxidant thiab cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob, xws li soyasaponins, tocopherols, thiab phytosterols. Cov kab mob tej zaum yuav yog 6 rau 10-fold ntau concentrated nyob rau hauv tag nrho cov isoflavones tshaj cotyledons (embryonic nplooj)[53]. Muaj ib qho tseem ceeb patent hais txog kev siv cov noob taum noob extract ua ke nrog creatine, creatinine, los yog derivatives rau stimulating collagen synthesis thiab txo cov cim ntawm kev laus. Txawm li cas los xij, tsis muaj pov thawj ntawm qhov kev txiav txim no tau pom [54]. Soybean kab mob kuj muaj cov flavonoids cuam tshuam xws li genistein, equol, thiab daidzein isoflavones, uas muab cov tshuaj tiv thaiv antioxidant, tiv thaiv kev mob, thiab cov tshuaj estrogenic, nrog rau estrogenic lignans [15,51]. Isoflavones, thiab tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov genistein, kuj muab kev tiv thaiv kev tiv thaiv zoo. Soybean extracts tau pom tias inhibit elastases thaum nce daim tawv nqaij elastin, collagen synthesis, thiab glycosaminoglycans qib, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog hyaluronic acid (HA) hauv cov tawv nqaij laus [49,51,55]. Cov teebmeem no tau pom tias muaj kev cuam tshuam zoo rau kev yees duab hauv plaub qhov kev sim ob qhov muag tsis pom kev, uas tau ua nrog tag nrho cov kua mis, kua mis, thiab kua isoflavones ntxiv rau lignans [15]. Kua mis nyuj, taum pauv, thiab kua isoflavones, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog genistein, tau raug npaj ua cov khoom xyaw kom zoo nkauj [35,56]. Txawm hais tias cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo extract tseem muaj isoflavones, nws daim ntawv thov ua cov khoom siv los tiv thaiv kev laus tseem tsis tau paub.

"Hydrolyzed soy protein", uas muab cov peptides me me thiab cais cov amino acids rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij tsuas yog siv rau xyoo 2011. Nws cov txiaj ntsig hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus tsis tau sau tseg rau hnub no.

2.2.4.Simmondsia Chinensis

Txij xyoo 2011 txog 2018, kev siv Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba, lossis Buxus chinensis) kuj nce ntxiv. Jojoba belongs rau tsev neeg Buxaceae, thiab nws cov roj yog dav siv nyob rau hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce [32,57].Nws muaj ib tug dav spectrun ntawm fatty acids xws li oleic, linoleic, linolenic, thiab arachidonic raws li zoo raws li triglycerides, uas ua ke muaj ib tug ntau yam ntawm fatty acids. muaj pes tsawg leeg zoo ib yam li daim tawv nqaij [32] Jojoba roj kuj muab cov kev ua haujlwm antioxidant vim nws cov ntsiab lus hauv polyphenols xws li tannins, nrog rau alkaloids, steroids, thiab glycosides [58]. Cov tshuaj lom neeg ntawm cov tshuaj no tsis paub.

"Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) noob roj", pom nyob rau hauv 2011, zoo li tau hloov los ntawm "Simmondsia chinensis roj", uas tej zaum yuav sib haum mus rau tib yam kev npaj.

Ntxiv mus, nyob rau hauv 2018, peb kuj tau pom "Jojoba esters" nyob rau hauv ntau yam khoom.Txawm li cas los xij, lawv qhov kev txaus siab tshwj xeeb rau daim ntawv thov ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus tsis paub.

2.2.5.Helianthus annuus

Helianthus annuus (sunflower) kuj tseem siv hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce rau cov ntsiab lus rog ntawm cov noob. Sunflower noob roj muaj feem ntau ntawm oleic thiab linoleic acids, nthuav tawm ntau dua concentration los ntawm yav tas los piv rau txiv roj roj [57]. Linoleic acid yog ib qho agonist ntawm peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha (PPAR-a), uas txhim kho keratinocyte proliferation thiab lipid synthesis. Yog li, cov ntsiab lus linoleic acid yog hy-pothesized raws li qhov laj thawj tseem ceeb vim li cas cov roj sunflower tau pom tias khaws cia stratum corneum kev ncaj ncees thiab txhim kho hydration ntawm cov neeg laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij yam tsis muaj inducing erythema [59]. Sunflower roj kuj muaj polyphenols xws li caffeic, chlorogenic, thiab ferulic acids [60]. "Helianthus annus noob roj" yog cov feem ntau siv sunflower npaj nyob rau hauv ob lub xyoos, tab sis nyob rau hauv 2018, "Helianthus annus noob wax" (ib yam khoom los ntawm sunflower roj winterization) kuj tau sau tseg. Ib cag ntawm nws cov khoom moisturizing, tsis muaj pov thawj los ntawm kev txaus siab ntawm paj noob hlis hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus.

Kab lus no yog muab rho tawm los ntawm Molecules 2021, 26, 3584. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26123584 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/molecules