Trends in The Use Of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics Part 1

Thov hu rauoscar.xiao@wecistanche.comyog xav paub ntxiv

Abstract:Cov khoom xyaw botanical tau siv ntau txhiab xyoo hauv kev tu tawv nqaij rau lawv txoj kev yooj yim nrog rau kev sib txawv thiab kev nplua nuj ntawm cov tebchaw nrog kev ua haujlwm lom neeg. Ntawm cov no, polyphenols thiab tshwj xeeb tshaj yog flavonoids tau nce qhov tseem ceeb vim lawv cov tshuaj tiv thaiv antioxidant thiab tiv thaiv kab mob. Nyob rau hauv txoj kev tshawb no, feem ntau siv botanical npaj nyob rau hauv lub anti-aging khoom lag luam nyob rau hauv 2011 tau txiav txim. Kev tshuaj xyuas tau rov ua dua hauv 2018 rau cov khoom tshiab thiab kho dua tshiab. Cov pov thawj tshawb fawb rau lawv daim ntawv thov ua cov khoom xyaw nquag hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus thiab lawv cov ntsiab lus flavonoid kuj tau muab tso ua ke los ntawm kev tshawb nrhiav online scientific databases. Zuag qhia tag nrho, nyob rau hauv 2018, muaj ib qho kev nce ntxiv ntawm kev siv botanical npaj nyob rau hauv anti-aging tshuaj pleev ib ce. Txawm li cas los xij, peb hom botanical saum toj kawg nkaus hauv ob lub xyoos yog Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parki, thiab Glycine soja, uas zoo ib yam nrog ntau dua ntawm cov pov thawj tshawb fawb txhawb nqa lawv cov txiaj ntsig. Hais txog kev ua haujlwm ntawm kev npaj botanical, muaj kev nyiam meej rau DNA-tiv thaiv cov khoom xyaw. Flavonoids ntau tshaj plaws yog flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, thiab anthocyanins. Txoj kev tshawb no tau muab cov ntsiab lus tshiab ntawm kev ua lag luam tiam sis hais txog kev siv botanicals hauv cov khoom siv los tiv thaiv kev laus thiab tau sau tseg txog lub xeev ntawm kev kos duab ntawm cov pov thawj scientific rau cov nroj tsuag siv ntau tshaj plaws.

Ntsiab lus:botanical; kev npaj;anti-aging; tshuaj pleev ib ce; kev ua lag luam

Thov nias ntawm no kom paub ntxiv

1. Taw qhia

Tau ntau txhiab xyoo, ib txwm muaj, cov khoom xyaw muab tau los ua raw khoom rau cov khoom tu tawv nqaij, thiab muab tau los ntawm cov ntxhia, tsiaj txhu, lossis zaub mov [1,2]. Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 21st, kev siv cov khoom xyaw uas tau txais los ntawm cov khoom xyaw tseem yog ib qho kev nthuav dav, uas tej zaum yog vim muaj kev cuam tshuam hauv internet thiab kev tshaj xov xwm. Los ntawm 2015 txog 2019, lub ntiaj teb "cov tshuaj pleev ib ce" thoob ntiaj teb tau nthuav dav, nrog 10-11 feem pua ​​kev loj hlob txhua xyoo. Lub khw no tseem sawv cev rau lub sijhawm zoo rau kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce, vim tias ntau tus neeg siv khoom txaus siab them nyiaj ntau dua rau cov khoom no [34].

Xyoo 2011, kwv yees li ib feem peb ntawm cov khoom xyaw uas tau teev tseg los ntawm International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI system ntawm Personal Care Products Council tau muab cais ua "botanical extracts". extracts, qhia cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo, tinctures, waxes, zaub roj, lipids, nroj tsuag carbohydrates, cov roj yam tseem ceeb, raws li zoo raws li purified nroj tsuag Cheebtsam, xws li cov vitamins, antioxidants, thiab lwm yam khoom uas muaj kev paub txog lom lom [5]. Lub npe INCI siv lub Latin. binomial qhia txog ib feem ntawm cov nroj tsuag (piv txwv li, hauv paus, nplooj), thiab cov khoom extraction (xws li, extract, roj, kua txiv).

Ntawm tag nrho cov khoom uas tuaj yeem pom nyob rau hauv kev npaj botanical rau kev siv tshuaj pleev ib ce, polyphenols tau nce qhov tseem ceeb vim muaj ntau ntau ntawm cov dej num lom neeg. Polyphenols tau pom tias muab cov tshuaj tiv thaiv antioxidant thiab tiv thaiv kev ua haujlwm tom qab siv tshuaj pleev ib ce, nrog rau kev muaj peev xwm tiv thaiv cov noob qhia thiab kev ua haujlwm ntawm daim tawv nqaij enzymes, xws li hyaluronidase, thiab matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) collagenase, thiab serine protease elastase [7] .

Polyphenols yog ib pawg loj ntawm ntuj, hluavtaws, thiab semi-synthetic compounds, nrog tsawg kawg yog ib lub nplhaib phenolic. Polyphenols tau muab cais ua qee cov chav kawm thiab ntau yam subclasses nyob ntawm seb muaj pes tsawg lub nplhaib, uas yog phenolic acids, suav nrog hydroxybenzoic thiab cinnamic acids, flavonoids, thiab stilbenes, ntawm lwm tus [8].dab tsi yog cistancheFlavonoids yog cov pab pawg loj ntawm cov tsis muaj zog molecular phenolic tebchaw thiab muaj cov qauv dav dav ntawm 15-carbon skeleton, uas muaj ob lub phenyl rings (A thiab B) thiab ib lub nplhaib heterocyclic (C), uas muaj ib tsev neeg loj. suav nrog flavanols, flavonols, flavones, anthocyanidins, thiab isoflavones, ntawm lwm tus [9].

Raws li qhov "natural" ntu, tag nrho cov khoom lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce tau loj hlob nrog ntu "tiv thaiv kev laus" tuav ib feem ntawm ntau dua 39.6 feem pua ​​​​hauv 2015[10].bioflavonoidsKev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij yog qhov tshwm sim ntawm qhov tshwm sim ntawm qhov tshwm sim ntawm lub xov tooj ntawm lub sijhawm kev laus, tab sis nws kuj yog exacerbated nrog rau ntau qhov chaw ib puag ncig hu ua daim tawv nqaij laus exposome. Cov no suav nrog hluav taws xob (ultraviolet, pom, thiab infrared), huab cua paug, haus luam yeeb, noj zaub mov tsis zoo, nrog rau kev pw tsaug zog, kev ntxhov siab, lossis kev siv tshuaj pleev ib ce tsis txaus [11]. Kev raug cov teeb pom kev zoo xws li lub hnub thiab cov teeb pom kev zoo zoo li muaj feem cuam tshuam, ua rau muaj qhov tshwm sim hu ua photoaging (Table 1) [12]. Lub teeb xiav los ntawm lub hnub thiab cov khoom siv hluav taws xob, tseem hu ua lub zog siab pom lub teeb, tab tom npaj ua qhov tseem ceeb rau kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog hais txog pigmentation [11]. Qhov ua rau thiab qhov tshwm sim cuam tshuam nrog cov tawv nqaij thiab cov duab thaij duab tau muab sau tseg hauv Table 1.

Hauv xyoo 2010, ib txoj kev tshawb fawb tau soj ntsuam 10 cov khoom xyaw botanical saum toj kawg nkaus hauv cov khw muag tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus hauv Tebchaws Meskas. Peb tsis paub txog kev ua haujlwm zoo sib xws hais txog kev lag luam tshuaj pleev ib ce nyob sab Europe [13].

Ntawm no, qhov kev tshawb fawb no qhia txog hom kab mob botanical uas siv ntau tshaj plaws hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus hauv xyoo 2011 thiab 2018. Kev ntsuam xyuas tseem ceeb ntawm lawv cov muaj pes tsawg leeg thiab cov pov thawj kev tshawb fawb tam sim no uas txhawb nqa lawv cov kev tiv thaiv kev laus kuj tau ua.

2. Cov txiaj ntsig thiab kev sib tham

2.1. Botanical Preparations Prevalence thiab ntau yam

Hauv xyoo 2011, 63.8 feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov khoom tiv thaiv kev laus muaj cov tshuaj botanical npaj thaum xyoo 2018, 73.8 feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov khoom muaj cov khoom xyaw. Qhov no sib haum mus rau 16 feem pua ​​​​nce hauv lub sijhawm xya xyoo, uas zoo ib yam nrog kev lag luam loj hlob [3].

Tus naj npawb ntawm cov tsiaj botanical siv los tiv thaiv kev laus cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce ib xyoos yog me ntsis siab dua hauv 2011, nrog rau 106 hom sib txawv piv rau 96 xyoo 2018. Txawm li cas los xij, 177 cov khoom tau soj ntsuam hauv 2011 piv nrog 103 cov khoom hauv 2018, uas tuaj yeem cuam tshuam qhov kev tshawb pom no. .

2.2.Top Botanical Hom

Kaum hom botanical uas muaj ntau dua tau nthuav tawm hauv daim duab 1.

Txawm li cas los xij, muaj ntau yam kev npaj sib txawv rau qee hom botanical, sib xws rau kev rho tawm ntawm qhov sib txawv ntawm cov nroj tsuag thiab ntau txoj kev rho tawm. Ntxiv nrog rau qhov sib txawv ntawm cov nroj tsuag keeb kwm, cov kev sib txawv no ib leeg tuaj yeem ua rau muaj ntau yam khoom xyaw.muab cistancheTsis tas li ntawd, qee zaum, cov ntaub ntawv pom nyob rau hauv cov khoom 'cov npe muaj pes tsawg leeg tsis tiav, thiab nws tsis tso cai txheeb xyuas qhov twg ntawm cov nroj tsuag lossis cov txheej txheem extraction tau siv. Cov ntaub ntawv qhia nyob rau hauv daim ntawv lo cov khoom kom zoo nkauj tau muab tso ua ke hais txog txhua qhov kev npaj botanical thiab ces categorized raws li hom botanical (Table 2).

Nws tau pom tias cuaj ntawm kaum feem ntau siv botanical hom tshwm sim nyob rau hauv 2011 thiab 2018 (Daim duab 1), uas qhia tias cov no ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev ua tau zoo ntawm cov khoom kom zoo nkauj. Nws tseem tsim nyog hais tias ib sab ntawm Glycyrrhiza glabra, muaj kev nce ntxiv hauv kev siv 10 hom nroj tsuag saum toj kawg nkaus hauv xyoo 2018 piv rau 2011. Qhov kev tshawb pom no zoo ib yam nrog peb cov txiaj ntsig txog kev npaj botanical prevalence. Hauv qab no, cov pov thawj scientific txhawb nqa kev tiv thaiv kev laus ntawm txhua hom kab mob botanical los ntawm sab saum toj 10 tau tshaj tawm. Cov polyphenol muaj pes tsawg leeg los ntawm tag nrho cov kev npaj botanical yog sau tseg nyob rau hauv Table 3.

Cistanche tuaj yeem tiv thaiv kev laus

2.2.1.Vitis vinifera

Nyob rau hauv 2011, Vitis vinifera (vine) yog cov feem ntau siv botanical hom, tig mus rau peb qhov chaw nyob rau hauv 2018. Ntawm tag nrho cov botanicals soj ntsuam nyob rau hauv txoj kev tshawb no, nws yog ib tug nthuav ntau yam loj tshaj plaws ntawm kev npaj.

Grape thiab liab cawu cub yog cov khoom noj khoom haus loj ntawm stilbenes ob qho tib si hauv cov ntaub so ntswg uas tsis tuaj yeem noj tau thiab tsis noj [22].

"Palmitoyl grapevine tua extract" yog cov feem ntau siv txiv hmab txiv ntoo npaj nyob rau hauv ob lub xyoos, txawm hais tias nws siv tau poob los ntawm 2011 mus rau 2018. Cov muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm no palmitoylextract yog tsis paub. Txawm li cas los xij, tom qab vine stems, tua yog ib feem ntawm cov nroj tsuag uas muaj ntau dua resveratrol concentration [23]. Cis- thiab trans-resveratrol yog ntau polyphenols nyob rau hauv cov huab cua ntawm cov nroj tsuag. Lawv muab kev ua haujlwm antioxidant thiab txo qis kev qhia thiab kev ua haujlwm ntawm ROS tsim cov enzymes thaum nce kev qhia ntawm cov enzymes antioxidant.cistanchResveratrol tau pom tias tswj tau metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1)-mediated UVB-induced skin aging, apoptosis-induced skin aging, and inflammatory-mediated complications called "inflammaging" in dermal fibroblasts [24].cistanche AustraliaCov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm resveratrol rau SKH-1 cov nas tsis muaj plaub hau ua ntej UVB raug kuj ua rau muaj kev cuam tshuam loj ntawm daim tawv nqaij edema, o, thiab lipid peroxidation [25]. Grapevine tua rho tawm kuj paub tias muaj ntau yam stilbenoids, xws li trans-resveratrol, ampelopsin A, e-vinifera, r-vinifera, w-vinifera, pallidal, hopheaphenol, piceatannol, isohopeaphenol, thiab r2-vinifera [26] ]. Trans--Viniferin, ib qho resveratrol oligomer, tau pom tias muab cov nyhuv tyrosinase inhibition ntau dua thaum piv nrog resveratrol, arbutin, kojic, thiab ascorbic acids [27]. Ib qho kev tshawb fawb hauv vitro tau txiav txim siab tias cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo extract tau tshwm sim muaj zog tiv thaiv antioxidant ntau dua li cov vitamin C lossis vitamin E ntawm keratinocytes tom qab HO, raug [28]. Ib qho kev ntsuam xyuas hauv vivo tau pom tias plaub lub lis piam ob zaug-hnub thov ntawm 1 feem pua ​​​​Vitis vinifera tua extract (tseem hu ua serpentine) cov ntshav tau muab kev txhim kho tseem ceeb hauv daim tawv nqaij firmness, radiance, kev ntxhib los mos, thiab cov kab zoo, thiab wrinkles [29].

Los ntawm 2011 txog 2018, kev siv "Vitis vinifera (grape) noob roj" tau txo qis, thaum "Palmitoyl grape noob extract" thiab "Vitis vinifera noob extract" tsuas yog siv nyob rau xyoo tom qab (Table 2 ). Cov roj txiv hmab txiv ntoo muaj cov linoleic acid hauv nws cov fatty acid muaj pes tsawg leeg, uas muaj 66.0 feem pua ​​​​rau 75.3 feem pua ​​​​ntawm tag nrho cov fatty acid. Nws kuj tseem muaj cov ntsiab lus vitamin E ntau dua li cov taum pauv thiab cov roj txiv roj, uas ua ke nrog cov tshuaj phenolic xws li catechins, epicatechins (flavan-3-ols), thiab procyanidin B1 (proanthocyanidin) flavonoids, carotenoids, phenolic acids, thiab stilbenes muab. ib qho kev ua antioxidant uas yuav pab tau hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los tiv thaiv kev laus. Grapeseed roj yog siv los ua ib qho emollient hauv cov khoom kom zoo nkauj. Nws kuj tau pom tias muab cov txiaj ntsig ntxiv rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij xws li kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob thiab kev kho qhov txhab hauv cov qauv nas [30]. Txawm li cas los xij, tseem tsis muaj pov thawj tshawb fawb txog qhov ntawd. Grape noob extracts tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nplua nuj nyob rau hauv proanthocyanidins, feem ntau B hom procyanidins tab sis kuj monomers thiab oligomers, uas tau pom tias muaj zog antioxidants thiab dawb radical scavengers, ua tau zoo dua vitamin C los yog vitamin E. Grape noob extracts kuj muaj catechin, epicatechin, thiab epicatechin gallate[13,31]. Cov kev npaj no tau qhia txog kev ua haujlwm tyrosinase-inhibiting, ua tau zoo hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tiv thaiv kev laus [32]. Kev tshawb fawb soj ntsuam tau soj ntsuam cov teebmeem ntawm tib neeg lub ntsej muag ntawm daim tawv nqaij ntawm W / O cream uas muaj Muscat Hamburg dub grape noob extract. Txoj kev tshawb no ib leeg-dig muag randomized placebo-tswj txoj kev tshawb fawb pom tau tias muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau daim tawv nqaij dawb, moisturizing, thiab muaj peev xwm tiv thaiv kev laus[33]. Cov pov thawj ntau dua los ntawm cov noob rho tawm piv rau cov roj tuaj yeem ua pov thawj tias lawv siv ntau dua [25,34]. Qhov tseeb, "Vitis vinifera noob extract" tau raug npaj los ua cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab cov khoom siv los tiv thaiv kev ua qias tuaj [13,35]. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov tseeb muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm "Palmitoyl grape noob extract" tseem tsis paub.

"Vitis vinifera (grape) txiv hmab txiv ntoo extract" kuj tau siv nyob rau hauv 2011, tab sis nws tsis tau pom nyob rau hauv 2018. Grape berries muaj ntau yam antioxidants, xws li cov vitamins C, E, carotenoids, thiab polyphenols [36]. Qhov tseeb, lawv raug suav hais tias yog ib qho ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm bioactive polyphenols xws li anthocyanins, flavonols, flavan-3-ols, tannins, thiab hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives, thiab stilbenes, xws li resveratrol [28,37]. Ib tug loj npaum li cas ntawm cov tebchaw yog tam sim no nyob rau hauv daim tawv nqaij txiv hmab txiv ntoo (tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nyob rau hauv liab-skinned ntau yam), noob, thiab, rau ib tug tsawg npaum li cas, pulp [37]. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) paub zoo txog nws cov teebmeem tiv thaiv kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij, txhim kho nws cov kev tiv thaiv UV raug, txo qis hyperpigmentation, txo cov qhab nia wrinkle, thiab txhim kho daim tawv nqaij [38,39]. Vitamin E (tocopherol) kuj yog siv los tiv thaiv kev laus vim nws muaj peev xwm txo erythema los ntawm UV raug, roughness, sunburn, wrinkling, thiab daim tawv nqaij pigmentation [15]. Melatonin kuj pom nyob rau hauv cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo Italian thiab Fabkis. Qhov no neurohormone yog ib tug biogenic indolamine uas ua lub luag hauj lwm tseem ceeb nyob rau hauv cov kev cai ntawm circadian thiab raws caij nyoog rhythms, tab sis nws kuj yog ib tug proven dawb radical scavenger thiab broad-spectrum antioxidant. Contrary to vitamin C, E, los yog glutathione, uas tuaj yeem rov tsim dua los ntawm cov tshuaj tiv thaiv redox thiab tuaj yeem txhawb kev tsim ntawm lwm hom oxidized, melatonin zoo li cuam tshuam nrog cov dawb radicals los ntawm kev sib txuas ntxiv, yog li ua rau cov khoom ruaj khov uas yog antioxidants lawv tus kheej [40] . Kev tshawb fawb randomized, placebo-tswj, ob-dig muag txoj kev tshawb fawb pom tau hais tias cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm melatonin muab kev tiv thaiv tiv thaiv erythema vim los ntawm UV hluav taws xob los ntawm ntuj tshav ntuj [41]. Qhov kev kho mob ua tau zoo ntawm cov tshuaj pleev xim melatonin ua cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus tseem tsis tau paub. Txawm li cas los xij, ib txoj kev tshawb fawb sib piv ob hnub thiab hmo ntuj formulations uas muaj melatonin nrog ib tug tsis kho kev tswj sab pom kev txhim kho ntawm daim tawv nqaij hydration thiab daim tawv nqaij tonicity, nrog ib tug kho mob kev txhim kho nyob rau hauv lub nam ntawm wrinkles, vim hais tias cov instrumental tau tsis tseem ceeb piv nrog lub hauv paus thiab. tswj sab [42]. Txawm hais tias cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo tuaj yeem muaj cov txiaj ntsig zoo, kev tshawb fawb pom tias nws cov txiaj ntsig zoo rau kev tawm tsam ntawm daim tawv nqaij laus tsis pom. Qhov tsis muaj pov thawj no tuaj yeem piav qhia nws qhov txo qis hauv cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce.

Kab lus no yog muab rho tawm los ntawm Molecules 2021, 26, 3584. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26123584 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/molecules